Brows have always been subject to their own set of beauty trends, but they've become more of a canvas for statements than ever in 2023. Not only are we in our eyebrow decorating era, but we’re constantly on the hunt for new products to make our arches look their best. While some items, like the Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Freeze, work wonderfully to create precision arches, we’d be lying if we said the application process of brow products doesn’t take time and effort to perfect. In a trend that's slowly but surely changing the game, brow tattoos have become more popular than ever: If you’re fond of #beautytok, surely you’ve seen ombré brows and microblading appear on your feed. Both of these treatments are promising for helping you to achieve gorgeous brows without the tedious daily maintenance, but it's important to understand the difference before deciding which to try yourself. Ahead, learn everything you need to know about ombré brows and microblading, complete with insights from brow specialists and dermatologists.
Meet the Expert
- Melissa Pruett is a brow artist and educator who holds expertise in microblading among other techniques. She is the founder of Melt by Melissa, which offers various brow, skincare, and cosmetic products online as well as services out of the brand's two Arizona locations.
- Joey Healy is a celebrity eyebrow specialist based in New York City. He is the founder of his eponymous brow product collection as well as the Joey Healy Eyebrow Studio, which offers various eyebrow and lash services to a high-profile clientele.
- Tiffany Jow Libby, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist with accreditation in Mohs surgery, dermatologic oncology, and cosmetic dermatology. She is the director of Mohs micrographic and dermatologic surgery at Brown Dermatology.
What Are Ombré Brows?
Ombré brows are a micro-pigmented brow tattoo technique that creates the appearance of a powder-filled gradient brow. "During an ombré brows procedure, a trained artist uses a cosmetic tattooing device to deposit pigment into the skin of the eyebrows," says brow expert Melissa Pruett. "Unlike microblading, which creates hair-like strokes, ombré brows involve shading or stippling techniques to achieve the desired effect."
Prior to your ombré brows treatment, you’ll sit down for a consultation to discuss your ideal shape, fullness, and color. During this consultation, Pruett says that the artist will create a customized design, with preferences in mind, all while working to color-match to your skin tone.
After the consultation, it’s time for the treatment itself. "Using the tattooing device, the artist applies the pigment in a series of dots or strokes, gradually building up the color intensity," Pruett says. "The pigment is concentrated at the tail of the eyebrows and becomes lighter towards the front, creating a soft gradient effect." While this technique is known to create a more made-up finish, Pruett says that some artists blend and feather the edges to achieve a more natural appearance.
In terms of side effects, Pruett says clients may experience redness and swelling in the treatment area following an ombré brows session. "It usually subsides within a few days," she says. Also, right after treatment, your brow shade may appear more intense than expected, but don't let this alarm you: Pruett says that "the pigment may appear darker initially but will lighten as the skin heals."
Like many cosmetic treatments, ombré brow appointments often involve follow-ups. "It is common to have a follow-up appointment after a few weeks to assess the healed results and make any necessary adjustments," Pruett says, noting that periodic touch-ups are ideal to maintain the desired shape and color over time.
What Is Microblading?
Microblading is a brow tattoo technique that uses precise, hairlike strokes for a natural look. Generally, microblading is used to enhance shape, fullness, and definition. "During a microblading session, a trained artist uses a handheld tool with a series of tiny needles to deposit pigment into the upper layers of the skin in the eyebrow area," Pruett explains.
Since microbladed strokes are applied more superficially, this brow tattooing technique skews semi-permanent, while ombré brows go deeper and are considered a more permanent solution to sparse arches. However, neither will look exactly the same forever, so you'll want to do your research on which result and maintenance level is best for you.
Before placing needle to skin, your brow artist will hold a consultation with you to discuss your overall brow goals. "The artist then maps out the shape of the eyebrows, taking into consideration the client's facial features and symmetry," Pruett says. "Once the desired shape is agreed upon, the microblading process begins." Since microblading involves longer tattoo strokes, she says that brow artists will often apply numbing cream to the area to minimize discomfort.
Following a microblading session, redness and tenderness is normal in the treated area and will subside in a few days. It’s also normal for brows to look darker than anticipated at first—Pruett says that they'll fade in the weeks following the session. If your brows fade significantly more than expected, bring that up at your follow-up appointment, typically held a few weeks after your treatment.
Ombré Brows vs. Microblading
According to Pruett, the main difference between ombré brows and microblading—both of which are brow tattoo techniques—lies in the technique and the final result. Microbladed brows tend to look more natural, with individual strokes mimicking the appearance of brow hairs, but Pruett says that ombré brows, created with stippling, have a softer, more diffused appearance. "The shading technique creates a gradient effect with a lighter front and a gradually darker tail, resulting in a subtle and filled-in look that resembles makeup," she explains.
Another differentiator? Ombré brow and microblading services take different amounts of time, plus their staying power varies. "It can take multiple sessions for a specialist to achieve an ombré brow, while microblading typically only takes one session," says celebrity eyebrow specialist Joey Healy. Once complete, he says that microshading tends to last longer than microblading. "On average, you can go about eight to 12 months before touch-ups with ombre brows, while microblading needs touch-ups every six to eight months," he reveals.
The healing process and overall maintenance differ, as well. "Microblading typically requires a shorter healing time, with scabbing and flaking lasting around one to two weeks," Pruett says. "Ombré brows may have a slightly longer healing period, as the shading technique involves depositing pigment deeper into the skin." In both cases, Pruett says the best way to speed up healing and protect the brow tattoos is to avoid excessive moisture, sun exposure, or picking at the treated area.
Which Should You Get?
To pick the perfect brow tattoo for you, consider your end goal. If you want natural-looking brows, go with microblading; if you want a more dramatic, powder-filled effect, go with the ombré brow technique. You may also want to consider your skin type. "Microblading is generally suitable for various skin types, including dry, normal, and slightly oily skin; it can work well for individuals with sparse or thin eyebrows who desire a more natural and defined look," Pruett says. "Ombré brows, on the other hand, can be a better option for individuals with oily skin or those who prefer a softer, more diffused appearance. The shading technique helps to minimize the visibility of [inconsistencies] and can be a suitable choice for individuals with problematic skin."
The Final Takeaway
Ombré brows and microblading are both reliable brow tattoo techniques to enhance the appearance of your arches. Generally speaking, ombré brows tend to take longer to create, but they also last longer overall. Meanwhile, microbladed brows typically take just one session and last for around six months. In both cases, touch-ups are recommended to maintain the appearance over time.
While ombré brows and microblading have become popular, like any other cosmetic treatment, they do come with risks. "Discoloration is a possible side effect of brow microblading that can affect [your] complexion," says board-certified dermatologist Tiffany Jow Libby, MD. "The same goes for ombré brows, as the process is still the same, while the application is different."
If you're interested in a brow tattoo service and want to minimize the risks, Pruett emphasizes the importance of booking with a reputable and experienced technician. She says to look for someone who follows proper sterilization and safety protocols, and has trustworthy reviews. "Additionally, carefully follow the pre- and post-treatment instructions provided by your technician to promote proper healing and reduce the likelihood of complications," she adds.