"Dark Ballerina" Beauty Is the Thesis Statement of New York Fashion Week

Model with straight hair and untied pale pink ribbons. — Getty

New York Fashion Week is primarily focused on the fashion trends we'll see in Spring/Summer 2024. But it's safe to say that the beauty looks at New York Fashion Week this September were strong, often outshining the clothes. One aesthetic that continuously slayed on the runway is what we're calling Dark Ballerina—the dramatic sister to TikTok's Balletcore fashion trend.

Don't be misled by the name. Balletcore has nothing to do with leg warmers, sweatbands, and hours of grueling rehearsals. Instead, it pays homage to the classic, pale-pink-everything uniform of ballerinas everywhere, including lace-up ballet flats, ruffled wrap skirts, hair ribbons, and satin bows. The trend quickly moved into the beauty space, manifesting into ballet buns and natural manicures. The Dark Ballerina aesthetic incorporates those same style and beauty elements with moodier colors, added drama, and heavy inspiration from the previous spinoff of Balletcore, Sleaze Balletcore. Think less delicate, The Nutcracker vibes. This look is more raw and gritty, a là the Black Swan.

To channel your inner Dark Ballerina, you'll need to dust off your favorite black eyeliner, bring out your glittery eyeshadow palettes, and practice new types of braids. Read on to see how your favorite designers brought the drama to Balletcore this season.

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Satin Strands

Model with wavy black hair and untied tulle pink and white ribbons. — Getty

Layered, untied satin and tulle ribbons were seen on multiple runways this year, including Collina Strada and Christian Siriano. Bumble and bumble global artistic ambassador Evanie Frausto achieved an edgy, piecey finish with Bb. Prep, using Spray de Mode for a flexible hold that moves. The result? Cool, intriguing, "I don't care" vibes.

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Sculptural Buns

Model with multiple braids arranged to form a loose bun. — Jeb Burroughs

Backstage at Dauphinette, Oribe created slicked-back, off-duty ballerina hair complete with voluminously sculptured, braided buns. Strands of pearls and crystals were interwoven in a few of the models' buns, creating an elevated day-to-night transition.

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Siren Eyes and Revenge Lips

Model with wispy eyelashes, shimmery eyeshadow, and black winged eyeliner. — Holly Rhue

Too Faced's Elyse Reneau brought Balletcore to the dark side with smoked-out, elongated siren eyes. To recreate this swan-like look, subtly smudge black eyeliner on your lower lash and waterline, pairing it with an extended cat eye, shimmer eyeshadow, and wispy lashes. For rich blue-red "revenge lips" (aka statement lips), Reneau used Lady Bold Cream Lipstick and Lady Bold Waterproof Longwear Lip Liner, both in the shade Lady Bold.

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Laced Up

Model with red hair braided with a pale pink ribbon and tied in a low bun. — Getty Images / Dave Kotinsky

Tight corset braids (created by Unilever stylist and celebrity hair artist Lacy Redway) took center stage at Christian Siriano's show. Redway used the Tresemmé Ultra Fine Hairspray along with bobby pins and lace-like black fishnet to keep the ribbons taut and tucked in place. "I love 'fantasy hair' because it takes you out of your comfort zone," she explains. "I also love playing with hair accessories because it's a great way to elevate your look."

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Ethereal Eyes

Model with straight hair a loose ribbons at christian siriano show — Gregory Scaffidi

The Charlotte Tilbury Pro-Artistry team created an edgy Balletcore beauty moment that meshed glistening baby pink eyeshadow with sharp winged eyeliner. On the models' eyes, the MUAs used the Luxury Eyeshadow Palette in Uptown Girl, Hollywood Exagger-Eyes Liner Duo, and Pillow Talk Push Up Lashes Mascara.

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