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As of late, there seems to be a never-ending influx of new skincare ingredients hitting the scene. From learning about the hydrating powers of hyaluronic acid to discovering that using ceramides is key to repairing the skin barrier, there's been a lot to keep up with. Plus, did you know there's a difference between retinol and retinoids? Well, if you like learning just like us, then there's a new ingredient you need to have on your radar called copper peptides.
Copper peptides have many benefits for skin, Prudvi Kaka, Chief Scientific Officer at skincare brand, NIOD explains, "When applied topically, copper peptides mimic naturally occurring peptides by reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and uneven skin texture and tone."
If you're looking to get clued up on copper peptides, read on as Kaka along with dermatologists, Adash Vijay Mudgil and Marie Hayag, as well as celebrity facialist, Joanna Vargas, give us their take on the impressive ingredient.
Meet the Expert
- Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD, is the founder of Mudgil Dermatology in NYC.
- Marie Hayag, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of 5th Avenue Aesthetics.
- Prudvi Kaka is the Chief Scientific Officer at skincare brand, NIOD.
- Joanna Vargas is a celebrity facialist and founder of Joanna Vargas Salons and Skin Care.
Keep reading to learn more about the ingredient that acts like nature's Botox.
Copper Peptides
Type of ingredient: Antioxidant
Main benefits: Stimulates collagen production and fights free radical damage.
Who should use it: In general, anyone looking to get rid of hyperpigmentation.
How often can you use it: Twice a day.
Works well with: Copper peptides don't have an enhanced performance when used simultaneously with any particular ingredient, but in general, it's recommended that they are used in conjunction with a barrier-protecting moisturizer.
Doesn't work with: Dermatologists typically recommend that you don't use copper peptides simultaneously with vitamin C, but each case is different depending on the formulas you're using. Consult a dermatologist before using.
What Are Copper Peptides?
Simply put, "Peptides in general are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of protein," says Kaka, "There is a tripeptide called GHK that is naturally found in human plasma and has a high affinity for copper (Cu) ions." Ready to get a little more science-y? Kaka explains, "When GHK and copper ions are combined they can form GHK-Cu complexes (Copper Peptides). This peptide fragment results from the breakdown of collagen, a structural protein. Copper GHK-Cu content can become depleted as the skin ages and when applied topically, Copper Peptides play a primary role in supporting a number of key functions for maintaining optimal skin appearance."
Benefits of Copper Peptides for Skin
Copper peptides "serve as an antioxidant, promote collagen and elastin production, and also remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin," says Vargas. Dr. Mudgil agrees, adding that: "Copper peptides ... can help soften the appearance of fine lines." Keep in mind that the key phrase here is that copper peptides are thought to boast these benefits. Dermatologists have mixed feelings, so further research needs to be done to reveal definitive proof.
However, there are some proven benefits of copper peptides: "I like products with copper peptides for wound healing," says Dr. Hayag. "Another benefit is that it can help with acne by normalizing the bacterial concentration on the skin."
Side Effects of Copper Peptides
Overuse of most ingredients in any form of skincare can be bad, but unless you have sensitive skin or are using other exfoliating ingredients, copper peptides are generally tolerable. And while they're way gentler than retinoids are, they can still cause a rash. In general, your best line of defense is just not to ingest them. Also of note, too much copper intake can make you nauseous and give you gastrointestinal issues. But that's not the worst of it— they may cause serious organ system toxicity.
How To Use Copper Peptides
Copper peptides should only be used in their designated concentrations within skincare products. Because of the way they're absorbed into the body, it can be dangerous to use too much of them. Thankfully, it's pretty hard to find copper peptides in their isolated form.
For the most part, you will find copper peptides as an ingredient in face serums. If you're using a retinoid, it would be wise to stagger usage, so one night you could use a copper peptide serum, and the next, your retinol. As with any new skincare product, you should patch test before slathering on your face with abandon. If you experience any adverse, discontinue use, and if irritation persists, consult with your dermatologist.
