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Stocksy
It feels as if every other week there's a new "it" skincare ingredient that promises to deliver the complexion of our dreams. At this point, we know there's a lot of misinformation out there and those "it" ingredients might just be very good marketing, but every now and then, one comes to light that's actually so good for the skin that it's worthy of a coveted spot in your lineup. The latest ingredient that's been wowing us and dermatologists alike: snail mucin.
While the name may raise some brows, we promise it's a legit ingredient that can feel surprisingly nice on the skin. After all, it wouldn't have become one of the most prominent ingredients in K-beauty skincare if it didn't deliver major results while feeling great on the skin. So now that it's become popular in the U.S., we knew it was time to do a deep dive into the superstar ingredient.
Below, board-certified dermatologists, Sheel Desai-Solomon and Ted Lain, weigh in on the buzzy ingredient. Since it's not as well-studied as many of its other skincare ingredient counterparts, it's important to sort out the science from the hype. Keep scrolling to learn more about what snail mucin is, how it's sourced, the pros and cons, and how best to use it.
Meet the Expert
- Sheel Desai-Solomon, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Raleigh-Durham, NC.
- Ted Lain, MD, is a dermatologist in Austin, TX.
Snail Mucin
Type of Ingredient: Moisturizer and collagen-stimulator.
Main Benefits: It moisturizes the skin, promotes collagen production, and aids in skin healing and regeneration.
Who Should Use It: In general, snail mucin can be used on all skin types, though its hydrating properties make it especially choice for those with dry skin, says Dr. Lain. And unless you’re allergic to the ingredient, it’s generally well-tolerated by most. (Though keep in mind that since it is derived from an animal, vegans may want to take a pass).
How Often Can You Use It: This largely depends on why you're using it (since it does have many benefits) and what type of product you're using. Generally speaking, you can use snail mucin once or twice per day.
Works Well With: It’s often combined with antioxidants and retinol, as well as common skincare staples such as vitamin C, glycolic acid, and other moisturizing ingredients.
Don't Use With: Because research is still limited, it's unknown whether or not it interacts poorly with any other ingredients, says Dr. Lain. Right now, there's no evidence that it does.
What Is Snail Mucin?
Simply put, it’s the excretion from a snail, which is why it’s also known and appears on ingredient labels as snail secretion filtrate, or SSF. Snail mucin is naturally created and used by snails as a way for them to protect themselves, says Dr. Desai-Solomon. “It’s a trusted ingredient in the K-beauty world and has become a popular one because it can offer noticeable results,” she adds. Worth noting: This isn’t an excretion that comes out whenever the snail moves, but rather a substance that's excreted when the snail is under stress, points out Dr. Lain (more on the importance of that in a minute).
Benefits of Snail Mucin for Skin
Snail mucin is a mega multitasker, with the ability to do everything from moisturizing to boosting the production of collagen (the protein responsible for strong, youthful skin, to improving wrinkles).
- Moisturizes the skin: According to Dr. Lain, snail mucin contains moisturizing agents that work to repair the barrier function of the skin, both locking out irritants from the environment while also simultaneously locking in moisture.
- Stimulates collagen production: “Because snail mucin is a stress-induced excretion, it's comprised of ingredients meant to repair or protect from injury," Dr. Lain explains. "These include growth factors, which work by triggering the growth of new skin cells and new collagen.” And, as we know, more collagen equals fewer wrinkles and younger-looking skin. Dr. Desai-Solomon adds that it also contains glycolic acid, another known collagen-booster.
- Soothes irritation: Allantoin is another key component in secretion. This ingredient has healing properties that calm irritation, smooth the skin, and stimulate cell regeneration.
- Delivers important vitamins and minerals: Snail mucin is loaded with a list of good-for-your-skin nutrients, including anti-inflammatory zinc and healing manganese. It contains copper peptides, also lauded for their collagen-increasing and wrinkle-decreasing effect. It also contains vitamins A and E, both of which are great antioxidants.
Side Effects of Using Snail Mucin on Your Skin
“There aren’t any well-documented side effects of snail mucin,” says Dr. Desai-Solomon, though both dermatologists point out that, as with any ingredient, people can be allergic to it. Avoid allergic reactions by testing a small amount of any new product on the inside of your forearm before slathering it all over your face. And if you're using any type of prescription-strength treatments, Dr. Desai-Solomon recommends speaking with your derm before adding any new product to your line-up.
How to Use Snail Mucin
This largely depends on your particular complexion concerns and what you hope to get from the ingredient. According to Dr. Desai-Solomon, many people like using snail mucin for moisturizing purposes, in which case she suggests opting for a night cream, such as COSRX's Advanced Snail 92 All-In-One Cream ($26) that contains it. (Bedtime is a prime opportunity for your skin to reap not only the hydration benefits but also the other restorative and regenerative properties of the ingredient as well). Apply it every evening on clean skin, as the final step in your routine, layered over any other treatment products, such as toners or serums.
If you're looking to use snail mucin as a multi-purpose anti-ager, seek it out in a serum, such as Biopelle's Tensage Intensive Serum 40 ($136) as these will have a higher concentration of the ingredient. Apply it morning and night, right after cleansing, and before any other product.
