Allantoin Is The Soothing Skincare Ingredient Derms Love

In the beauty community, we're a little guilty of hyping up some moisturizing ingredients—think hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide, and squalane—and skincare products while overlooking others that deserve the same praise. Take allantoin, for instance—the potent, healing, and soothing ingredient that's been used for centuries.

You're not alone if you don't know much about it or haven't even heard of it. Despite all of its skin benefits—including anti-aging and exfoliation properties—allantoin flies under the radar. Because we think it deserves more recognition (and a spot in your dry skincare routine), we spoke to top dermatologists Ava Shamban, MD, and Jennifer Herrmann, MD, to answer all your questions about the sensitive-skin-loving ingredient.

What products you can find allantoin in and how to best reap its benefits, below.

What Is Allantoin?

Allantoin, also known as aluminum dihydroxy allantoinate, is an extract from the comfrey plant, native to temperate climates of Asia and Europe. According to Herrmann, it has potent healing and soothing properties, and for centuries, comfrey leaves were used to help heal minor skin injuries and swelling. Additionally, it can be found in various plants, such as beets, chamomile, wheat sprouts, and even tobacco seeds. Shamban adds that although it can be extracted for cosmetic usages from most of these sources, more often, it's the lab-created versions we find in products. "Both versions are safe and effective when used in advanced skincare and are becoming more and more popular for efficacy and results," Shamban says.

What Products Can You Find It In?

Allantoin comes in powder form and is found in many creams and liquids, such as moisturizers, exfoliators, and masks. "Although rigorous scientific studies are lacking, there is anecdotal evidence that it helps moisturize the skin by exfoliating and removing dead skin cells that prevent natural humectants from binding and retaining water in the skin," Herrmann says.

Benefits of Allantoin for Skin

Allantoin is multipurpose and, as Shamban puts it, "the kind of employee you want on your team—one who can multitask and with a full range of talents." Below are eight ways allantoin can improve your skin:

• Moisturizes: Allantoin is an emollient that moisturizes your skin and prevents dryness and irritation.
• Soothes skin: Allantoin has the additional functionality of being a calming agent. Herrmann says it soothes and protects the skin by forming complexes with irritant and sensitizing agents.
• Improves skin-healing: Herrmann says it has been noted to help soothe injured skin and promote wound healing and is often used to treat skin irritation and rashes.
• Exfoliates: Herrmann adds that allantoin is also keratolytic, which means it exfoliates dead skin cells. As explained by Shamban, it helps desquamation, the shedding of the outermost membrane or layer of tissue from the inside out. 
• Hydrates: Shamban says its keratolytic property can increase the water contents of cells, therefore fighting against the damage of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the dermis, which keeps the skin looking plump and youthful. "Think of it as almost the expansion of a sponge when wet, holding the maximum amount of liquid," she says.
• Improves skin dullness: Allantoin promotes cell proliferation and supports overall "remodeling," as Shamban puts it. "If the skin is stressed by the usual and customary list of offenders, then the skin is going to try to repair itself as opposed to having more cells turn over," she explains. "What we want to do with the epidermis is to have it constantly exfoliating itself and having more cells be produced because that’s how you get a faster transit time of the epidermal cells. As people get older, then that transit time from the base layer of the epidermis to the top layer takes longer, and also the skin is stressed, and those are some of the causes of dull, dry skin, too. This is going to help with that cell proliferation."
• Smoothes skin: Herrmann says removing surface dead skin cells (stratum corneum), also helps keep the skin smooth and soft.
• Rejuvenates the cells: Although gentle, it can still be an effective anti-aging ingredient. "Allantoin is highly beneficial in facilitating collagen synthesis," Shamban says. "As it stimulates the fibroblasts (cells responsible for producing collagen), it also boosts extracellular matrix synthesis, which is why it is a strong rejuvenator."

Side Effects of Allantoin

In general, allantoin is non-toxic and safe for cosmetic use. "It's non-irritating, it is a gentle anti-ager in skincare and is good for most skin types, including sensitive skin or those with a range of skin conditions because it has the additional functionality of being a calming agent," Shamban says. But Herrmann adds that some people can be allergic to the ingredient, especially if used directly from crushed comfrey leaves, which should be avoided.

How to Use It

Herrmann says allantoin should be applied according to how the product containing it is directed. Shamban adds that, generally, it's safe to use the ingredient daily.