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Liz deSousa for BYRDIE
If you were to imagine the texture of your ideal body lotion, foundation, or moisturizer, would the words "smooth," "velvety," and "silky" come to mind? Our obvious guess is yes. But what's not so obvious is what exactly it is that makes our favorite products so buttery and luxurious to the touch. The answer to that one? Dimethicone.
A form of silicone, dimethicone, might already be on your radar, as whether it's problematic or necessary in our skincare products is highly debated and something we want to get to the bottom of. So, we reached out to top dermatologists Heidi Waldorf, MD, and Mara Weinstein, MD, as well as cosmetic chemists Gloria Lu and Victoria Fu, to find out what's true and what's just another rumor floating around the internet.
Keep reading to hear how the experts recommend reaping this ingredient's benefits in your skincare and makeup routines.
Meet the Expert
- Heidi Waldorf, MD, is a dermatologist with Waldorf Dermatology Aesthetics in New York.
- Mara Weinstein, MD, FAAD, is a dermatologist at the Dermatology Department at the University of Rochester Medical Center and serves as one of the only fellowship-trained cosmetic and laser surgeons in Western New York.
- Gloria Lu is a cosmetic chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions.
- Victoria Fu is a cosmetic chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions.
Dimethicone
Type of ingredient: Emollient
Main benefits: Gives a silky texture to products, seals hydration, and protects the skin.
Who should use it: It's safe for all ages and skin types but is especially recommended for those who want to prevent dry, rough, scaly skin.
How often can you use it: Daily.
Works well with: Humectants and active ingredients that cause dryness and irritation.
Don't use with: Dimethicone works well with most, if not all, other ingredients.
What Is Dimethicone?
Dimethicone (also known as polydimethylsiloxane) is a synthetic polymer of silicon, a natural element of the Earth.
How Does It Work?
According to Waldorf, dimethicone is classified as an emollient that works to improve skin softness by sealing the spaces between the superficial dead cells of the stratum corneum (the top layer of the epidermis).
What It's Used In
Dimethicone is often used in cosmetic products designed for the face, such as creams, foundations, lotions, moisturizers, and primers, as it smooths skin's texture, locks in hydration, and boosts the longevity of the formula.
Benefits of Dimethicone for Skin
- Creates a silky feel: Waldorf says the main reason silicones (including dimethicone) are used in skin care products is for their sensory properties. They provide a silky smooth finish to topical night creams and lotions, allowing a product to have a light texture and non-greasy feel that spreads quickly and easily.
- Seals hydration: Waldorf also says dimethicone has occlusive characteristics, which can seal in hydration and keep out external moisture and irritants by forming a water-resistant film on the skin. Weinstein adds that it forms a barrier on the skin that protects against transepidermal water loss, which can lead to inflammatory conditions.
- Won't cause breakouts: Waldorf argues that despite it being occlusive, dimethicone is non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic. Because of these traits, it's commonly used in oil-free formulations to give long-lasting moisturization without clogging the pores.
- Controls shine: Weinstein says it is often used in cosmetic products designed for the face because it allows sweat to evaporate but controls the shine of an oily complexion.
- Protects the skin: It acts as a skin protectant against outside moisture and irritants (like other ingredients) that can cause dermatitis.
- Smooths texture: Weinstein says it can fill in fine lines or wrinkles on the face that contribute to the texture of your skin and create a smooth surface for a more even makeup application, which is why it's often found in primers.
- Has a matte finish: The smooth and slightly mattified finish of dimethicone makes it a great ingredient to smooth on during your pre-makeup routine.
- Has emollient characteristics: As an emollient, dimethicone works to soften and soothe the skin, but with a lighter, less greasy finish than other ingredients.
Side Effects of Dimethicone
Because dimethicone is occlusive, there's mass confusion about whether it causes clogged pores and irritation and prevents other ingredients from absorbing into the skin. However, according to Fu, there is no scientific basis for those claims. "Silicones are non-comedogenic and non-sensitizing," she explains. "You could even say they're 'cleaner' since dimethicones are pure synthetics. Plant oils and butters can be quite complex being pressed from plants and have a higher chance of containing potential allergens."
Yu adds, "It does work as an occlusive, but this is a basic function in moisturizers and not at all like the scary ‘putting plastic film over your face’ analogy fear-mongering blogs tend to refer to."
Waldorf says dimethicone is listed in the FDA monograph for skin-protectant drug products. However, because dimethicone is not an ingredient you use alone, Weinstein suggests spot-testing any new product before applying it to your face to see if the formula is right for you.
How to Use Dimethicone on Skin
Fu says this ingredient is generally safe for daily use, but how often and the order in which you apply formulas that contain dimethicone depends on what the product is specifically. If you're using it in a moisturizer or primer, Weinstein's best advice is to apply it to clean, damp skin after bathing or showering. And since it is occlusive, Lu says you should apply your water-based serum and gels first, then finish with creams, oils, and balms to optimize the absorption of your actives and lock them in.
Does Dimethicone Work on All Skin Types?
Dimethicone is non-comedogenic, making it an effective moisturizer for all skin types, including acne-prone. It's especially useful, however, for those with dry or sensitive skin that could use the extra moisture.
