Liz DeSousa for Byrdie
Among the very long list of products to keep your skin happy and healthy are emollients. If you've never heard of using emollients for dry skin, you are missing out. These hydrating ingredients help smooth and soften the skin by repairing its surface. However, since the term emollient is used to describe specific ingredients and product categories such as lotions, creams, and ointments, it can be confusing to know which to choose and how they can help your dry skin. We reached out to dermatologists to help break down what this skincare hero is and how to add it to your routine.
Meet the Expert
- Marnie Nussbaum, MD, is a New York City dermatologist.
- Nava Greenfield, MD, is a dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in Brooklyn, NY.
- Rachel Nazarian, MD, is a dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City.
Emollients
Type of Ingredient: Moisturizing agent
Main Benefits: Smoothes and softens the skin by helping to repair cracks in the skin barrier, thus preventing water loss; acts as a lubricating agent in products.
How Often Can You Use It: Emollients can generally be used regularly and liberally on most types, the one exception being those with naturally very oily skin.
Works Well With: "Emollients work well with a range of other skincare ingredients," says Nussbaum. In moisturizers, emollients work best when paired with other moisturizing agents that have occlusive or humectant properties, meaning they coat and cover the skin or attract water to it, respectively, she explains. They can also be combined with other actives, such as anti-inflammatory botanical extracts.
Don't Use With: Avoid pairing emollients with ingredients that can have potentially irritating side effects that you don't want sealed into the skin, cautions Nussbaum, who cites retinol and alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids as common examples.
What Are Emollients?
Emollients are ingredients or products that hydrate the skin by providing a protective layer to keep in moisture and prevent and treat skin dryness. "This is a broad category with many different products and ingredients that can be considered or used as emollients," says Greenfield. Let's talk about the ingredient side of things first. Butters, oils, esters, lipids, and fatty acids are all considered emollients.
Nussbaum explains these can be either natural options, such as shea butter or coconut oil, or synthetically derived ones, such as mineral oil. Regardless, they work the same way: "When skin is dry and flaky, there are open spaces in your skin cells. An emollient can help to fill those spaces and smooth out the skin," she says.
Types of Emollients
The term emollient also refers to a range of moisturizing products that contain these ingredients. These include, in ascending order of thickness, lotions, creams, and ointments, says Greenfield. The difference: The water-to-oil ratio.
- Lotions contain mostly water and less oil, making them thinner in viscosity and fast-absorbing. These types of water-based emollients are great for people with normal or oily skin, says Nussbaum.
- Creams contain both water and oil, enough to lock moisture in the skin, but without leaving a greasy residue.
- Ointments contain the highest percentage of oil; they're thick and can be greasy, making them best reserved for severely dry and/or cracked skin. "These are often referred to as occlusive emollients since they help to form a protective barrier over the skin to seal or lock in moisture," Nussbaum explains.
- Sprays, according to Nazarian, are a perfectly fine method of applying the product. "They’re often a cleaner, easier way of applying product to the body, without risk of constant contamination that tubs or jars of lotions have," she says.
Benefits of Emollients for Skin
- Replenish the skin barrier to smooth and soften skin: Think of the outer layer of your skin—the often-cited skin barrier—as being made up of tiles and grout. The cells are the tiles, and when the grout (or the lipids) in between them is cracked or missing, skin can become dry and flaky, and even red and itchy. (A compromised barrier allows moisture to easily escape and irritants to more easily get in, neither of which does your skin any favors). Emollients act as the grout, filling in those gaps to smooth and soften the skin, says Nussbaum.
- Beneficial for skin conditions that cause irritation and redness: Emollients are beneficial not only for anyone dealing with run-of-the-mill dry, rough skin but also for those with conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and contact dermatitis, says Nussbaum. Credit that same ability to help replenish the oh-so-important skin barrier.
- Improves skin health: "Skin is most healthy when it's moist," explains Greenfield. "Environmental factors, as well as harsh soaps and cleansers, can strip it of its natural moisture, and this is when supplementing with emollients can be very helpful."
Common Skincare Uses for Emollients
- Can help calm eczema and psoriasis: As eczema and psoriasis typically entail dry and red patches of skin on your body, an emollient product can help moisten the skin and repair the moisture barrier.
- Can work to heal dry skin: As described above, emollients cover film with a protective barrier of moisture, helping to block ingredients that can dry skin out. Glycerin is a common emollient used in dry-skin products, says Nazarian.
- Can soothe burns: Those suffering from burns due to radiation treatments or sun exposure will appreciate the fact that emollients can help manage the dryness and itchiness that often accompany these skin conditions.
- Can seal in moisture after a bath or shower: After a bath or shower, especially one taken with hot water, which can cause dryness, using an emollient can help prevent skin drying and can lock in the hydration from water on the skin. Apply an emollient moisturizer directly after patting the skin lightly dry with a soft towel.
- Can help prevent chafing: Skin chafing from bras, tight clothing, or repetitive activities can damage skin and be painful. Applying an emollient prior to working out or wearing certain clothing may help prevent this condition.
Emollients vs. Occlusives
Emollients and occlusives have a lot of overlap in the role they play in skin care. According to Nazarian, an emollient "hydrates and softens the skin" while occlusives, in contrast, "lock hydration in, and prevent evaporation of moisture into the environment."
"Both have the similar goal of keeping skin healthier and stronger by supporting the moisture supply and barrier," she adds. "Oftentimes, I notice people use the terms 'humectant,' 'emollient,' and 'occlusive' incorrectly. By definition, a humectant pulls water in, an emollient softens skin, and an occlusive seals water in."
When to Apply Emollients
Nazarian recommends that people use their emollient then occlusive products immediately following their showers to optimize how much hydration is captured.
"I often recommend a combination of humectants, which draw water into the skin, and emollients, that lock water into the skin to be used together for the ideal hydrating technique," says Nazarian, who notes that a good humectant is hyaluronic acid, which draws water into the skin at exponentially large volumes. "Barrier-repair creams, such as Vaseline, contain emollients such as petroleum and can be applied afterward. These help decrease the moisture loss in the environment over time, especially during arid months such as in the winter.
Who Should Use Emollients
Emollients are good for most skin types, the one exception being those with naturally very oily skin, notes Greenfield. In this case, emollients, particularly heavy, oil-rich products, can potentially be too heavy and lead to clogged pores and breakouts.
Safety Precautions for Emollients
It's important to note that there are risks with emollients—namely, that the residue from wearing them isn't cleaned often enough. Residue from certain lotions and creams can act as an accelerant. While emollients aren't necessarily flammable themselves, those who apply them should take care to wash their clothing frequently, as residue that accumulates over time can increase the speed of ignition of a fire.
Side Effects of Emollients
Nussbaum states most emollients can be used liberally and safely without side effects. The major caveat? Be cautious when using thicker emollient products (we're looking at you, ointments) on your face, particularly if your skin is easily congested or prone to acne. Greenfield says these can occlude sweat glands, causing sweat to build up and create blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples.
One other potential problem: Since lotion and cream emollients contain water, they're more susceptible to microbial contamination, so they added preservatives. While not common, some people with very sensitive skin may be allergic to these preservatives, Nussbaum points out.
Nazarian recommends avoiding emollients on areas of the body that we prefer to keep drier, such as around the toes, under the breasts, and in the armpits, to avoid growth of fungus or yeast.
"With occlusives," she says "be cautious when pairing with retinoids or other or irritating ingredients such as glycolic acid, as sealing in those ingredients can increase risk of irritation."
How to Use Emollients
Aside from avoiding using particularly thick emollients all over your face, you really can't go wrong. (Though FYI, it's worth noting that it's best to avoid using them after procedures such as Fraxel or microneedling—these treatments leave open channels in the skin, so the emollients can potentially clog pores and cause breakouts, cautions Nussbaum).
For an added benefit, try applying them in gentle sweeping motions along the skin when skin is still a bit damp (like right after washing your face or stepping out of the shower) as they can help seal in the moisture that's already on your skin.
