Retinol and Sensitive Skin: Everything You Need to Know to Avoid Irritation

It doesn't take a medical degree or insider industry intel to know that retinol is considered the gold standard in anti-aging ingredients. And it's not just anti-aging—whatever your skin woe, be it uneven texture, dark spots, or breakouts, retinol can (probably) help. But it's not without its downsides—namely, the red, dry, flakey, and itchy skin that can come as an unintended side effect.

The retinol uglies, as they're often referred to, are enough to make anyone think twice about the ingredient. But when it comes to already sensitive skin, it can feel like retinol is out of the question altogether. So what's the deal? Can you use retinol if you have sensitive skin? We went straight to the experts—board-certified dermatologists Teresa Song, MD, and Ranella Hirsch, MD—to learn all about retinol and sensitive skin.

What Is Sensitive Skin?

In the simplest sense, Hirsch says sensitive refers to skin that reacts by stinging, burning, and itching (among other things) to assorted triggers, particularly those that others seem to tolerate just fine. As Song explains, drier skin is generally more sensitive when compared to oily skin because the barrier is weaker, making skin more likely to react to certain ingredients. Some people simply are genetically predisposed to sensitive skin, and anyone's skin can become sensitive in certain environments, seasons, or with changes in skincare.

Common symptoms of sensitive skin include:

• Redness
• Itching
• Burning sensation
• Dryness
• Flakiness
• Tightness

Meanwhile, when it comes to triggers, virtually anything can trigger sensitive skin flare-ups. Still, Song says the most common triggers include:

• Fragrances
• Foaming soaps
• Very hot or cold temperatures
• Stress
• Certain preservatives and active ingredients
• Polluted air
• Stress
• Illness

Can Retinol Benefit Sensitive Skin?

Both doctors agree: People with sensitive skin can still benefit from retinol without the nasty side effects—if chosen and incorporated correctly.

While retinol has a reputation for making even the toughest of skin sensitive to the touch, it's widely loved for a reason. Retinol helps improve skin texture, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve the appearance of discoloration, boost collagen production, and even reduce breakouts and blemishes. But with serious side effects like irritation, redness, peeling, and burning—which are even more likely to occur when used on sensitive skin—it makes sense that many decide to avoid the ingredient altogether.

Choosing the Right Retinol for Sensitive Skin

Factors to Consider

At the simplest level, those with sensitive skin should opt for gentler retinol options with lower concentrations of the ingredient. In general, over-the-counter products tend to be gentler than prescription retinol formulas, which often incorporate higher concentrations of the ingredient.

However, Song says it's important to note that concentration labeling across various over-the-counter brands of retinol may not be comparable. For this reason, she suggests looking for retinol products with hydrating formulations, such as cream moisturizers; we've rounded up some of our favorite retinol creams here. Meanwhile, Hirsch points out that certain interconvertible forms of retinoids, like granactive retinoids, are gentler and carry a lower risk of irritation.

Product Recommendations for Sensitive Skin

Song is a big fan of this cream, which features a low percentage of retinoid combined with lactic acid for visible results with little to no irritation. Plus, the formula includes an ultra-hydrating blend of ceramides, bisabolol, squalane, and green tea extract to hydrate, moisturize, and calm the skin.

Both dermatologists recommend RoC's retinol products, which are accessible, elegant, and well-tolerated by most. This particular cream formula combines retinol with hyaluronic acid for plumping and hydration alongside firming and smoothing properties.

This nurturing retinol night cream helps visibly boost radiance and fight fine lines while supporting the skin's natural protective barrier. And the pump-top packaging makes dispensing the right amount a breeze.

A blend of vitamin B3 and retinol hydrates skin while smoothing out texture and brightening darkness. Plus, the fragrance-free formulation is great for ultra-sensitive skin types.

This treatment balm features an encapsulated retinol blend to deliver powerful results in an ultra-soothing formula.

This creamy retinol serum is specifically formulated for sensitive skin and first-time retinol users. The microencapsulated retinol works gently but effectively, while anti-inflammatories help fight common retinol side effects.

Incorporating Retinol Into Your Sensitive Skincare Routine

Hirsch tells us the particulars surrounding application and use are crucial for successfully incorporating retinol into a sensitive skincare routine. First and foremost, use your retinol during your nighttime routine since it can increase sun sensitivity. Both doctors suggest starting slowly—Song recommends incorporating retinol into your nighttime routine one to two times a week, increasing as tolerated. Meanwhile, Hirsch advises starting with retinol use every third night. (A bit of a tomato, tomahto situation.) In the beginning, you'll want to cut active ingredients out of your nighttime routine completely—both on the nights you use retinol and those you don't—as it can often ratchet up irritation.

In terms of what you can (and should!) do in your routine, both experts suggest using the sandwich method. After cleansing with a gentle, non-foaming facial cleanser, apply a thin layer of moisturizer and let it dry down. Then, apply a pea-sized amount of retinol to the entire face—and yes, we really mean a pea-size. No more. Follow with another thin layer of moisturizer. On non-retinol nights, simply cleanse and moisturize. And always apply sunscreen in the morning.

Alternative Options for Retinol

While there's no true alternative to retinol, there are a few ingredients that offer some similar benefits. Song says bakuchiol is a great plant-based alternative with similar collagen-stimulating properties, while glycolic and lactic acids also gently exfoliate the skin while stimulating collagen production. Other ingredients, like palmitoyl tripeptides, can improve skin's firmness and decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

The Final Takeaway

Take it from our experts: Successful integration and use of retinol is completely possible with sensitive skin. It's just about finding the right formula for you, applying the right amount, and keeping the rest of your routine ultra simple and ultra-hydrating. And for any lingering concerns, we suggest seeking medical advice from a dermatologist.