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Stocksy
Ready to reach for the retinol? We've got some news: Retinol is only a small part of a greater family of skincare hero ingredients. Retinoids are a group of vitamin A derivatives, all of which work similarly in the skin to boost cell turnover and improve tone and texture, while also stimulating collagen production to ward off fine lines and wrinkles. And while all members of the retinoid group deliver incredible skin benefits, they're not all created equal. The difference? Potency. Retinol may get all the glory, but it's actually among the weaker retinoids. Retinaldehyde, on the other hand, is the real heavyweight coming up just short of prescription-level strength.
We spoke with dermatologists, Suneel Chilukuri and Marnie Nussbaum, for all the intel on retinaldehyde, including how it works and what makes it stand out from other retinoids. Keep reading to learn more about this particular retinoid and why it should be added to your routine.
Meet the Expert
- Suneel Chilukuri, MD, is a board-certified dermatologic surgeon based in Houston, TX.
- Marnie Nussbaum, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in non-invasive aesthetic rejuvenation, based in New York City.
Retinaldehyde
TYPE OF INGREDIENT: Exfoliator
MAIN BENEFITS: Promotes skin cell turnover, improves skin tone, helps unclog pores, and thickens the dermis to slow down the formation of wrinkles.
WHO SHOULD USE IT: Anyone looking for the anti-aging effects of a retinoid, especially those who have used and can tolerate retinol or retinyl palmitate, but aren't seeing the results they want. In this case, you can up the ante to retinaldehyde, which can be more potent and effective at jumpstarting your skin cells, says Dr. Nussbaum.
HOW OFTEN CAN YOU USE IT: While it’s important to ease into things to let your skin gradually acclimate to the ingredient, it can ultimately be used daily.
WORKS WELL WITH: Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids have commonly been used with retinoids to help further increase skin cell turnover, says Dr. Chilukuri (though it's important to make those separate parts of your routine, using once in the morning and once at night). Using antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and niacinamide can also help improve the skin's brightening effects, he adds. However, use these ingredients together with caution, and decrease use if you notice irritation.
DON’T USE WITH: Avoid using any retinoid at the same time as products with vitamin C, AHAs, or BHAs, as this can up the likelihood of sensitivity and irritation, says Dr. Nussbaum. She recommends using the former in the morning (under SPF, of course) and reserving the retinoid for nighttime use.
What Is Retinaldehyde?
Put simply, retinaldehyde (which often appears as retinal on skincare labels) is a vitamin A derivative that is a pre-cursor to retinoic acid: “For retinoids to work their magic—increase skin cell turnover, boost collagen production, decrease fine lines, decrease acne and minimize hyperpigmentation—they have to be converted to retinoic acid, which binds to skin cell receptors and elicits a call to action,” explains Dr. Nussbaum. The more conversion steps required before a retinoid can reach that end goal, the weaker and less potent it becomes, which is why the straight-up, retinoic acid you get with a prescription is far more intense than anything over-the-counter. Because retinaldehyde is only one step away from reaching that end goal, it delivers stronger effects than its other OTC counterparts, which require additional conversion steps before they turn into retinoic acid.
Still, at the end of the day, all retinoids have a similar effect on the skin, albeit in varying degrees. And while they often get lauded for their anti-aging benefits, retinoids are a good pick for all ages: “Retinoids, including retinaldehyde, are superpower ingredients, extremely effective at combatting blackheads and whiteheads, as well as fine lines and wrinkles, and can be used by everyone from acne-prone teenagers to those with more mature skin who are seeking to unlock the anti-aging benefits,” notes Dr. Nussbaum.
What Are Other Vitamin A Derivatives?
Of all the retinoids, retinoic acid (aka tretinoin) is the only retinoid in its pure form that your skin can utilize—it's also available by prescription only. The other retinoids that are most commonly found in over-the-counter products—namely retinyl palmitate, retinol, and retinaldehyde—have to undergo a conversion process to turn into retinoic acid before your skin can make use of the ingredient. The process goes in just that order, which also correlates with the retinoids' potency and efficacy; the more steps in the conversion process, the weaker the retinoid is.
So, in ascending order from weakest, or most suited for sensitive skin, to most potent, these are the forms of vitamin A derivatives:
- Retinyl
- Retinol
- Retinal
- Retinoic Acid
According to dermatologists, since retinaldehyde is the final stop before the hard stuff, it may be as strong of a retinoid as you can get without going into prescription-strength territory.
Benefits of Retinaldehyde for Skin
Like any retinoid, retinaldehyde delivers a long list of benefits, no matter your complexion concern.
- Speeds cell turnover: Our skin cells naturally turn over every 30 days on average, though this process takes longer as we age. By causing the skin cells on the outermost layer of skin to turnover faster, new cells can emerge, resulting in smoother, more even skin.
- Stimulates collagen production: Along with working on the surface of the skin to speed up cell turnover, retinoids, including retinaldehyde, also work on the deeper layer of the skin, where it boosts collagen synthesis for anti-aging benefits, increases elasticity, and repairs connective tissue in the skin, says Dr. Chilukuri.
- Keeps pores clear: In speeding up cell turnover and acting as an exfoliant, it also helps unclog pores to keep them clear, which is why it's often found in acne treatments.
- Balances oil production: “Retinaldehyde also balances oil production, thus shrinking the pores to prevent them from getting clogged and inflamed,” adds Chilukuri.
- Brightens skin tone: The brightening effect is thanks to the speeding of cell turnover, which reveals fresh, brighter, more youthful-looking skin.
- Thickens the inner layer of skin: Contrary to popular misconception, retinoids tend to make skin thicker.
- Safe to use any time of day: Unlike some ingredients, which may make skin more susceptible to UV damage, retinaldehyde can be used morning or night.
Retinaldehyde vs. Other Retinoids
So, how does retinaldehyde compare to retinol? As mentioned, it all goes back to that conversion process. Because retinaldehyde only requires one conversion step, it’s going to give you the closest effects to that of retinoic acid. At the end of the day, “Tretinoin, or retinoic acid, is the most potent and best-studied retinoid, but it can also be quite irritating which limits patients' acceptance and usage,” says Dr. Chilukuri. “For this reason, many dermatologists prefer less irritating but comparably effective retinoids like retinaldehyde.” If you’ve never used any retinoid and your skin is super sensitive, you may still want to scale back to a retinol or retinyl palmitate. But, if you’ve been using those and want to see more effects without having to get a prescription, kick it up to retinaldehyde.
Potential Side Effects of Retinaldehyde
No matter whether it's prescription-strength or over-the-counter, any retinoid carries with it the potential for the same type of unpleasant and unsightly side effects: redness, peeling, dryness, flaking. Retinoids are off-limits when you’re pregnant or breastfeeding.
How to Use Retinaldehyde
When you use products with retinaldehyde, it’s extremely important to use just a pea-size amount for the entire face, no more. Start out using it every third day, gradually working your way up to nightly use. “I usually recommend my patients work up to nightly application, however, that can be done over a few weeks or even months,” says Dr. Nussbaum, who personally recommends Maelove's Moonlight Retinal Super Serum. "This is a great face serum that contains retinaldehyde to brighten the skin and smooth texture, plus, hyaluronic acid to maintain the moisture barrier."
FYI, the skin around your eyes is the thinnest on the body, making it the most susceptible to damage and where signs of aging can show up first. That's why using a dedicated eye cream is always a good move. We love Avéne RetrinAL Eyes because it's specially formulated to also help firm and de-puff, as well as fight fine lines using retinaldehyde.
The bottom line: Don't rush the process. And if you do start to get red or flaky? “Scale it back to every other night or a few times per week,” suggests Dr. Nussbaum. Don’t worry that it isn’t doing anything; the cumulative effect over time will benefit the skin, she says. For more sensitive skin she recommends Obagi's Medical Retivance Skin Rejuvenating Complex. It touts calming chamomile extract, which can help reduce redness and irritation, according to Dr. Nussbaum.
The Final Takeaway
The results are in and retinaldehyde is a star ingredient and the next best thing to a prescription from your dermatologist. Just be sure to incorporate any products with this ingredient slowly to avoid some of the common retinol side effects like peeling, dry skin, and potential breakouts.
