Propolis Is a Sticky Bee Byproduct That Can Help Reverse Acne Scarring

You might know all about the skin-loving benefits of manuka honey and royal jelly, but how much do you know about propolis, another bee-based ingredient gaining popularity in skincare products?

If you've never even heard of it before, you're not alone. Despite being used for thousands of years thanks to its potential wound-healing properties, the sticky substance has yet to become a household name. So to answer all your questions about propolis (because we know you've probably got more than a few), we consulted board-certified dermatologist Nikhil Dhingra, MD, and cosmetic chemist Michelle Wong

Keep reading to find out of propolis is worth the buzz.

What Is Propolis?

Propolis is a waxy substance formed by the combination of tree sap and beeswax that bees use to create their nests. According to Wong, it contains a complex mixture of anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial compounds. "Its widest use has been for its antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, useful for protecting a bee's nest from the elements," Dhingra explains. "This function was co-opted by humans thousands of years ago for wound healing and for the treatment of skin and dental infections." The sticky end product—or "bee glue," as some call it—used for nest production has, for many decades, fallen in and out of favor as a naturally occurring anti-infective and healing agent, Dhingra explains.

The end product of propolis that has been shown to have bioactive properties is called balsam, according to Dhingra, and its proposed mechanisms are vast. As he describes it, several antioxidants and polyphenols (antioxidant compounds) have been suggested as part of the active component of balsam to exert antibacterial effects, but its exact mechanisms have never been made totally clear.

A K-beauty favorite, the ingredient can be found in the form of ampoules, toners, and moisturizers. Dhingra says the best formulation is going to depend on what the intended goal is. "It seems propolis is not highly controlled or regulated, and as a result, there is a ton of variability out there as to the nature of the stocks being used," Dhingra explains. "Beyond that, I don't think there is any true evidence to suggest the benefit of one preparation over the other." In clinical trials for wound healing, propolis has been used in ointments, sprays, and liquid form, adds Wong.

Benefits of Propolis for Skin

According to a comprehensive review, propolis and its extracts have many uses in treating various concerns due to its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, and antifungal properties. Below are a few ways it's thought to benefit the skin.

• Heals wounds: Wong says the main effects of propolis are anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial. "It's only really been studied in the context of wound healing," Wong explains, adding that it can potentially speed up the healing process. Dhingra adds that propolis seems to have excellent wound-healing properties beyond treating superficial skin infections and can be considered for mild wounds, scrapes, and burns where medical attention is not necessarily needed. "The bioactive component of propolis may encourage quicker skin turnover and create a sealed and protected environment to allow for sterile skin repair," Dhingra says.
• Treats acne aftermath: Outside of using it for wound healing, Dhingra says one category of patients who have seen the benefits of propolis is acne patients. "It may not suffice as a single therapy for resistant acne, but for healing the aftermath of acne (think scarring, pigmentation, textural issues), a propolis-containing product certainly has the bio properties to help with these particular concerns," Dhingra says.
• Decreases inflammation: Dhingra points out that propolis has also been reported as a useful adjunct for treating eczema and psoriasis by decreasing inflammation.
• Protects the skin: One study identified propolis as an effective reverser of UV-induced skin damage, which Dhingra says logically fits since propolis has demonstrated good antioxidant properties able to fight sun-induced oxidative damage on the skin.

Side Effects of Propolis

Despite the potential benefits of including a propolis-containing product in a skincare routine, there is a downside that shouldn't be overlooked. "I do want to stress that while the evidence shows promising outcomes, the rate of allergy is not to be minimized, and propolis is not a substitute for true medical intervention if needed for a particular condition," Dhingra says.

As is the case with many other ingredients, when applied to the skin, there's a real risk of developing an allergic reaction or contact dermatitis to propolis. Dhingra points out that this has been reported many times in scientific literature and that this one significant side effect gives him pause in wholeheartedly recommending propolis for most people, whether incorporated routinely or targeted toward a particular skin concern. "The incidence of this side effect is fairly high, which can cause more problems than may be worth it in the end," Dhingra says.

One thing to keep in mind is that a true allergic reaction to propolis is distinct from the irritation that comes with ingredients like retinol. If concerned about the risk of allergy, test the product on your inner forearm for a week or two before applying it to more sensitive areas or more broadly.

It's also crucial to note that because propolis serves as an extension of a bee's immune system—and a form of defense in their hives—collecting it can negatively impact the bee's colony. So while it benefits humans, be aware that commercial collection of large quantities of propolis is not sustainable.

How to Use Propolis

In general, if you decide to use a propolis-based product, refer to the instructions regarding the frequency of use and proper incorporation into your skincare routine.

If your intended use of propolis is to promote wound healing for things like burns, cuts, and scrapes, Dhingra says to look for an ointment-based product. "Ointments on their own already offer a clear therapeutic benefit to encourage good wound healing," Dhingra says. Creams can be a reasonable substitute, though they might not be as effective at creating a hydrated wound base. He also recommends using an ointment or cream-based product for issues such as fungal infections.

That said, propolis shouldn't be used as a substitute for a condition that requires medical attention. A non-healing wound or an active skin infection, for example, can get serious if not addressed properly. If your interest in propolis has been thoroughly piqued, Dhingra says you can always bring it up to your board-certified dermatologist.

In addition to being applied topically, propolis can also be taken orally in the form of a pill, cough syrup, or lozenge. However, Dhingra says ingested propolis has been linked to cases of allergic reactions, predominantly rashes, and adds that systemic effects, like breathing difficulties, have also been reported. Always consult your doctor before making any changes or adding supplements to your regimen.