How to Use Plum Oil, the Underrated Skin Plumper and Brightener

Fatty acids, polyphenols, and B vitamins are all buzzwords in the skincare industry—and there's actually one powerhouse fruit that contains them all. Plum oil is rich in fiber, B vitamins, potassium, and magnesium—and it helps the skin topically, as well as when ingested. In fact, many plum oil concentrations are rich in essential fatty acids and polyphenols, and can therefore provide much-needed antioxidants to the skin and hair.

We chatted with three cosmetic dermatologists—Dendy Engelman, MD is an award-winning, board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at The Shafer Clinic in New York City; Michele Green, MD is a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in the treatment of acne as well as other cosmetic skin concerns; and Debra Jaliman, MD is a board-certified dermatologist and author of the book, Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist—to learn more about plum oil.

Keep reading to learn everything you need to know about plum oil as a powerhouse skincare ingredient.

What Is Plum Oil?

Plum oil is a hydrator and anti-inflammatory ingredient that brightens and plumps skin, protects against radical damage and oxidative stress, and aids in cellular repair, sebum production, and skin turnover.

Plum oil is marketed on its own as an elixir, but is also found as an ingredient in some moisturizers and serums. In particular, Kakadu plums, native to Australia, generated skincare buzz in 2019, as the superfood was touted as the new vitamin C. It's primarily used on the face, though can also work well on the neck and décolletage. Plum oil may also be used as a hair treatment.

Benefits of Plum Oil for Skin

Plum oil has a host of skin benefits for such a lightweight oil, which make it a nutrient-rich daily treatment that can be used beneath heavier creams or serums. Its heritage comes from Asian cultures, most notably the south mainland of China, where the plum plant originated. Extracts of the plum plant, or prunus mume, have been used in traditional Chinese, Japanese, and Korean medicine for more than 2000 years.

More of plum oil's great benefits, below:

• Hydrating: Plum oil is known as a hydrating elixir. "It's full of omega fatty acids, vitamin A, and vitamin E," says Jaliman. Adding that "anything that is hydrating will help plump skin." Green notes that plum oil also contains "omega fatty acids 6 and 9 which are known to hydrate the skin."
• Anti-Inflammatory: Plum oil is chock full of polyphenols, which Green explains are "best known for its inflammatory properties that protect the skin from UV-induced free radical damage." Engelman also notes that plum oil is an ideal active for the skin due to its proven anti-inflammatory benefits. She points to a 2020 study that indicates plum extract has seen positive results as an anti-cancer treatment.
• Healing Properties: "The vitamin E found in plum oil will also promote skin healing due to minor irritations," says Green.
• Increases cell turnover: Due to its concentration of vitamin A, expect plum oil to help refine wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and promote cell turnover, which Green notes will promote a smoother, more even-toned complexion.
• Protects against free radicals and environmental stressors: Because plum oil is rich in antioxidants, it is effective, Green says, in delivering "bouncier, glowing, hydrated, and healthy-looking skin." With protection against free radicals and environmental stressors, you can also expect to see a reduction in brown spots, explains Green. Plum oil also contains vitamin C, one of the most well-proven skin treatments. "Vitamin C has restorative properties and is able to repair the skin at its cellular level," says Green, noting that you can expect to see a reduction in hyperpigmentation.
• Regulates sebum production: As an anti-acne treatment, or moisturizer for people with oily or acneic skin, plum oil is a regulator of sebum production: "Plum oil is rich in oleic acid and linoleic acid," explains Engelman. "Oleic acid encourages and rejuvenates body levels for sebum production—this regulation prevents excess sebum production and thus keeps acne at bay. By enabling additional natural oil production, it helps to keep skin hydrated. Linoleic acid prevents excess dead skin cell buildup. It is an essential fatty acid that encourages healthy skin cell turnover to prevent clogged and dead hair follicles." Engelman points to a 2020 study that touts the efficacy of fatty acid-rich skin treatments in promoting a healthy complexion.

Skin Type Considerations

• If you have reactive or sensitive skin, Green urges you to take caution before using. "If you have sensitive skin, you should apply sparingly, and if redness or irritation, rash, or burning occurs, discontinue use immediately."
• For balanced skin types, she says to "apply on clean, dry skin and allow to absorb prior to applying any other products." You can also add a couple of drops to your favorite moisturizer and apply when skin is damp for added absorption.
• Not only is plum oil noncomedogenic, but Engelman also says, "it can be beneficial for acneic skin because it helps to regulate sebum production." She notes that plum oil works wonders for people with oily skin whose sebum production is in overdrive. "There is a myth that those with oily skin should not use oils. Some oils have great benefits for the skin, like plum oil," says Engelman.
• Finally, dry and mature skin can see visible results from using plum oil. Engelman points out, "Since plum oil is rich in vitamin A, it is great for mature skin as it encourages cell turnover, revealing healthier, younger cells. In addition, the presence of antioxidants combat oxidative stress and reduces free radical damage."

Can Plum Oil Be Used on the Hair?

Because of its many hydrating qualities, plum oil is a great choice for the hair as well as the skin. Those with color-treated or dry hair will especially reap the benefits, as plum oil can be applied to hair post-shower (while still slightly damp) as a treatment to strengthen and moisturize stressed strands. We like Le Prunier's Plum Beauty Oil, which can be applied to both skin and hair.

Plum Oil vs. Argan Oil

Plum oil often gets compared to another skincare powerhouse: argan oil. That's because the two have similar benefits. Like plum oil, argan is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids, and offers both anti-inflammatory and moisturizing qualities for skin and hair. In short, it might be a personal preference, though Le Prunier, which produces a plum oil product for skin, has claimed that clinical trials have shown plum oil to pack even more of an antioxidant punch than argan.

How to Use Plum Oil for Skin and Hair

Jaliman instructs people to apply plum oil daily to clean skin. It can be used as often as twice per day, in the morning beneath makeup, and in the evening as part of your nighttime skin routine. Due to its light texture, plum oil pairs well with serums and moisturizers that are known for hydrating properties. Jaliman notes that plum oil is often found in elixirs that contain pomegranate seed oil and sea buckthorn oil, which are also both lightweight, antioxidant-rich oils that don't clog pores and encourage cell turnover, resulting in a smoother complexion.

You can also use plum oil as a hair treatment. Its lightweight texture makes it ideal for daily use without overly saturating the hair shaft. Green says to apply after shampooing and conditioning on the ends of damp hair to protect against heat damage caused by styling tools and blow dryers.