How to Use Minoxidil—AKA Rogaine—for Hair Growth, According to Derms

Hair loss, thinning, and shedding are much more common than you think—even if your hair routine is top-notch. Even if your haircare routine is up to par, sometimes there is more to hair density than scalp treatments and supplements can control. And when that's the case, dermatologists will often prescribe minoxidil—the generic name for the brand Rogaine—to help with hair growth.

Yes, minoxidil does work and is potent enough to improve hair growth and reduce hair loss when used correctly. So, how exactly do you use minoxidil, and how do you know if it'll work for you? Ahead, dermatologists share everything you need to know.

What Is Minoxidil?

Minoxidil—the generic name for Rogaine—is a topical treatment that is well-accepted by the dermatological community as an effective treatment for hair growth. “Minoxidil was originally developed in the early 1960s as an oral treatment for high blood pressure, a condition for which it is still, albeit rarely, used,” explains Kim D. Edhegard, MD, a Virginia-based dermatologist. “In one of the early trials for the treatment of blood pressure, the curious side effect of hair growth was noted.” After a few decades of research, the FDA approved topical minoxidil to treat male hair loss (and thus, Rogaine was born), and then later, for female hair loss as well.

Interestingly, scientists can’t quite agree on how minoxidil works to promote hair growth. “Possibly, this hair growth occurs because minoxidil causes increased blood flow to the hair by dilating the blood vessels in the scalp,” explains board-certified dermatologist Divya Shokeen. Another hypothesis, supported by 2017 data suggests that minoxidil increases a specific enzyme in the hair follicle, extending its growth phase (scientifically called the anagen phase). It is also thought to enlarge hair follicles that have shrunken due to hormonal changes.

Is Minoxidil Good for Hair?

No matter how minoxidil works, one thing's for certain: It can greatly benefit those with thinning hair and/or hair loss:

• Stimulates hair growth: "Minoxidil is a topical medication that is applied to the scalp to stimulate new hair growth in those experiencing hair loss,” explains Samantha Fisher, MD, a Florida-based dermatologist.
• Increases hair thickness and density: In addition to stimulating hair growth and quelling a receding hairline, “Minoxidil can increase the density and thickness of hair,” says Fisher. In other words, strands grow back fuller and healthier.
  
• Treats hair disorders: Minoxidil is shown to be effective in promoting hair regrowth and density in patients with Androgenetic alopecia and female pattern hair loss.

Does Minoxidil Really Regrow Hair?

There are plenty of hair growth gimmicks out there, but minoxidil is not one of them. Minoxidil is one of the most dermatologist-recommended treatments for stimulating hair growth and preventing further hair loss, and patients who use the medication correctly often see a visible difference. The below photo shows a before and after result of a consumer who used minoxidil from Hers for three months.

Hair Type Considerations

Generally speaking, minoxidil is safe for all hair types, including natural hair, although those with color-treated hair may experience more irritation. Minoxidil may be less effective on certain types of hair loss, such as forms of scarring alopecia that are more common among Black women.

Everyone is different, of course, so results vary, but overall, hair density will generally begin to stabilize two to three months into treatment, with fewer and fewer hairs being lost each day, Edhegard says. “This will continue over the treatment period to each person’s maximum.” In order to keep seeing the results, you have to continue treatment.

How to Use Minoxidil for Hair

Unless you are pregnant or trying to become pregnant, minoxidil should be safe for you to use—but you should only use minoxidil under the close guidance of a dermatologist. The OG minoxidil product is Rogaine, and there are versions marketed toward female-identifying people formulated with two percent and five percent of the ingredient, in both liquid (scalp drops) and foam. Telehealth companies like Hers offer minoxodil at a two percent strength, and the app will pair you with a dermatological provider to oversee your treatment.

While both products are very similar, Hers is less expensive and has an overall more modern look. However, Rogaine is more widely available at pharmacies and on Amazon, while Hers must be ordered directly from the brand online. It's recommended to visit a dermatologist in-person to see what brand and concentration they recommend for your specific use case.

Directions will vary depending on the product and guidance of your dermatologist, but most serums are topically applied. For a product like Hers, follow these steps:

• Apply about 1 ml of product to the scalp on damp or dry hair
• Do not wash out for at least four hours
• Repeat twice a day

Side Effects

According to Gretchen Friese, a BosleyMD-certified trichologist, you may experience redness or a little itching when using minoxidil because it increases blood flow to the scalp. However, it's best to see a dermatologist if the irritation doesn't improve.

It is thought that females are more susceptible than males to some side effects of the medication, particularly unwanted hair growth. They may also experience lightheadedness and scalp irritation. “In addition, females may experience facial hair growth as an unwanted side effect at higher potencies,” Fisher says.

When to See a Doctor

Since hair loss is complex and can be triggered by a number of factors—stress, changes in your hormones, recent illness, vegetarian or low protein diets, and rapid weight loss—Virginia-based dermatologist Brenda Dintiman, MD, advises that if you’re experiencing serious hair loss, you’d be wise to consult a professional. “A board-certified dermatologist can sort out what’s causing your hair loss and combine topical minoxidil with supplements like vitamin D and dietary recommendations to get your hair glossy, growing, and full again," she says.

The Takeaway

Minoxidil is considered the gold standard in hair growth, and it's often recommended by dermatologists. To get started with minoxidil, you'll need to visit a dermatologist to provide a prescription and oversee your care. Alternatively, you can also use a Telehealth company like Hers.