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Stocksy
Those who deal with dark spots know first-hand how frustrating they can be. Apart from being difficult to prevent, they also take forever to heal. What can be even more annoying than a rogue dark spot here and there, though, is hyperpigmentation, and under that umbrella falls melasma.
The pigmentary disorder occurs when your body produces too much pigment, and it's often triggered by hormonal changes. It's why melasma is often caused by pregnancy or birth control. The flare-ups vary between brown to grey-ish patches, and while they often go away on their own there are more than a handful of treatments to speed up the recovery process and mask the discoloration while you wait.
Below, two board-certified dermatologists and a licensed esthetician break down everything there is to know about treating melasma and share their favorite ways to do so. From retinoids and dermaplaning to hydroquinone and SPF, keep scrolling for their top tips.
Meet the Expert
- Michele Green, MD is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist based in the Upper East Side of NYC.
- Kerry Benjamin is a licensed aesthetician and founder/CEO of StackedSkincare.
- Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD is a board-certified dermatologist in New York. She is also an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell - New York Presbyterian Medical Center.
Try Cosmelan Peels to Reduce Facial Melasma
Cosmelan is a two-part process that includes two chemical peels spaced three weeks apart. “In my office, I do Cosmelan peels to reduce facial melasma,” dermatologist, Michele Green, MD, says. “The great thing about the Cosmelan treatment is that it is safe and effective for all skin types."
These peels are especially popular for the treatment of melasma because they're not formulated with hydroquinone, a popular melasma treatment that may, in some cases, cause redness and/or dryness.
Key Ingredients
Hydroquinone is a chemical compound used in products that treat hyperpigmentation. It works by interacting with the melanin-producing cells in the skin and decreasing the production of pigment.
Add an Exfoliant to Your Skincare Routine
It's no secret that exfoliation is key for smoothing skin and minimizing dark spots—which just so happens to include melasma. “Peels rich in trichloroacetic (TCA) acid and lactic acid like our TCA Multi-Acid Face Peel evenly exfoliate the outermost layer of the skin, which can aid in breaking apart pigmented cells,” aesthetician, Kerry Benjamin, says.
Use a Retinoid
Dr. Green tells us that retinol and Retin-A turn over the skin cells, rejuvenate the skin, and produce new collagen as well. Depending on your level of melasma, you may be able to get away with an OTC retinol like one of these, but if you have stubborn dark spots, you may want to consult your dermatologist for a prescription dose of Retin-A.
Try Dermaplaning to Lift Dark Spots
Another way to diminish the appearance of melasma? Dermaplaning. "Peels and dermaplaning are the perfect exfoliation partners because where peels speed up cell turnover– which causes old cells to shed and flake off– dermaplaning helps slough off these dead cells more effectively, which gradually removes some of the superficial hyperpigmentation and reveals a more even skin tone," says Benjamin.
Talk to Your Doctor About Your Contraceptive
Because melasma has been linked to hormonal changes and imbalances, it's possible that birth control can play a role in exacerbating your melasma. If you use hormonal birth control, consult your physician or a dermatologist about how your prescription might be making your melasma worse, and if there is a different contraceptive that might be better suited for you.
Add Vitamin C to Your Skincare Routine
Since the discoloration of melasma stems from an overproduction of melanin, Dr. Green says that you need to use products that will reduce this pigmentation and treat the excess melanin. “Vitamin C serum works as an antioxidant to lighten up dark spots and rejuvenate skin," she points out.
Dermatologist, Marisa Garshick, MD, adds to this, noting that vitamin C will fight free radical damage and brighten the skin overall. “One particular vitamin C product good for those with melasma is Revision's C Correcting Complex, which contains a combination of Vitamin C with patent-pending MELA-path technology to help provide protection against free-radical damage from blue light, so it helps to brighten and improve skin tone," she says.
Use Products That Help Speed Up Cell Turnover
Another great way to reduce the appearance of melasma is by stimulating cell turnover, which will help to gradually replace pigmented cells: “Our EGF Activating Serum contains natural epidermal growth factors that stimulate the skin’s ability to regenerate and heal, gradually brightening and lifting hyperpigmentation over time,” Benjamin says.
For even better results, she says to pair a turnover-boosting serum with microneedling to help the serum sink even deeper into the skin to target far-reaching melasma.
See a Dermatologist About a Hydroquinone Perscription
According to Dr. Green, products containing hydroquinone decrease pigmentation. And although some experts will advise against it, hydroquinone has shown impressive results in treating melasma. Dr. Garshick expands on this, noting that hydroquinone is a well-known lightening cream that has been used for the treatment of melasma for many years with different concentrations available (it used to be available over the counter, but is now only available with a prescription). “While it is an effective treatment for melasma, it should always be done under the direction and supervision of a board-certified dermatologist, given the potential risk of ochronosis or paradoxical darkening that can be associated with it,” she emphasizes.
Apply Sunscreen Every Single Day—No Matter What
Benjamin says that sun exposure can make melasma worse, which means SPF is a must. And this includes days when you’re not spending a lot of time outside, as well as days where it’s incredibly cloudy outside. After all, UV rays can still shine through.
When it comes to sunscreen, Dr. Garshick recommends broad-spectrum (UVA and UVB coverage), physical blockers that are zinc or titanium-based and that are SPF 30 or higher. “Additionally, there are some studies that suggest that those with hyperpigmentation or melasma may be more susceptible to worsening discoloration from high energy visible light or blue light,” she adds. “For this reason, it is also recommended to have protection against blue light, so it is good to look for sunscreens that offer protection against this, such as iron-oxide-containing sunscreens like Elta MD's UV Elements Tinted. I like this sunscreen as not only does it provide broad coverage, but it also is easy to apply for daily use.”
Disguise Discoloration with Makeup
Depending on the severity of your discoloration, anything from a color corrector to a full-coverage foundation could help even out the appearance of your skin tone. We recommend Live Tinted's Huestick Color Correctors to neutralize hyperpigmentation and Lancôme's Teint Idole Ultra Wear Foundation for luminous full-coverage that doesn't cake.
When to See a Professional For Your Melasma
Although there are various treatments that help to improve the appearance of melasma, and many people do find success with them, Dr. Garshick tells us that melasma is a skin condition that can come and go with the seasons and varying levels of estrogen. What’s more, while it’s largely not something to worry about in the grander scheme of health, Dr. Green says that the appearance of melasma can be an indication of underlying health conditions such as thyroid disease or other endocrine problems. Because of this, if the treatments above don’t seem to do you any good, you should seek out a dermatologist's professional opinion on what’s going on with your skin and health as a whole.
