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Whether you've had locs for a while or are still in your starter loc phase, you already know that maintenance is key. Proper care requires regularly clarifying your hair, oiling your scalp, and retwisting your locs every few weeks. In terms of the latter, you can either visit a loctician to help you refresh your locs or do it yourself. However, if you opt for the DIY route, there are a few tips and tricks to keep in mind. Ahead, hairstylists Yetty Bames and Klerissa McDonald explain everything you need to know about retwisting locs.
Meet the Expert
- Yetty Bames is a hairstylist, makeup artist, and brow specialist at Sharon Dorram Color at Sally Hershberger Salon.
- Klerissa McDonald is a natural hair specialist and the founder of the award-winning next-gen curl care brand Curly By Nature.
Shampoo Your Locs
Bames and McDonald agree that starting the process with freshly shampooed locs is essential. "Locs tend to accumulate tons of dirt and dust, so a thorough clean is necessary," Bames says. She recommends using a clarifying shampoo twice to refresh the scalp and then applying a moisture-rich shampoo once to rebalance your hair. McDonald also recommends massaging your scalp while shampooing to help remove product buildup and debris.
Use a Conditioner
According to Bames, ensuring your locs are moisturized is key during this process. After shampooing, you'll want to use a moisture-rich conditioner. "Finally, to seal in moisture, use a leave-in conditioner to soften the hair and prepare it for styling," she says
Redefine Your Parts
You can focus on parting once you've shampooed and conditioned your locs. "Locs can be parted in any way that feels fitting to the style you want to wear," Bames explains. "If you're unsure about parting styles, you can try different parting techniques," she says. To redefine your parts, use your fingers and a rat tail comb to determine what hairs belong to each loc. Our experts recommend using a mirror during this process to ensure your parts are precise. "The cleaner the parting, the more defined the look," McDonald says.
Apply a Twisting Gel or Cream
When applying a twisting gel to your locs, Bames recommends saturating the scalp and root of your hair with your gel of choice. If you don't want to use a twisting gel, McDonald recommends using a twisting cream and lightly misting your locs with a hydrating spray.
Retwist and Clip Each Section
After applying your gel or cream, you'll need to retwist each loc. "For each loc, softly hold down on the root and twist until the new growth is secure," Bames says. If you're having trouble figuring out how to retwist the new growth, McDonald suggests "applying gentle tension and twisting your palms in a clockwise direction until the base is fully retwisted." From there, Bames recommends pinching the root of your loc and clipping it with a double-pronged small clip to keep it in place. Repeat this process until your whole head is retwisted.
Dry Your Locs
Once you've retwisted your locs, you need to dry them. You can air dry, use a handheld dryer, or a hooded dryer on a low setting—the most important thing is to dry them thoroughly to avoid odor. If you use a hooded dryer, in particular, Bames suggests "putting a fishnet scarf or wrapping paper over your locs to hold them down while drying them for extra security."
Remove the Clips
Once your locs have dried completely, the final step is to remove the clips. "The twisting gel or cream should have set, leaving your locs neatly retwisted," McDonald says. As you remove the clips, avoid pulling your locs. To finish, moisturize the scalp and hair for shine. Bames says you should repeat the retwisting process every few weeks, depending on how fast your locs grow. "If your locs grow fast, then retwists may be needed every three to six weeks, while those with a slower pace of growth will need retwists every two months or more," she adds.
