Serena Burroughs / Stocksy
Braids are one of the most popular protective styles, but that doesn't mean they don't come with downsides. One of the main drawbacks of braids is that they have the potential to be too tight, and trust—no one wants the scalp sores, pain, or worse that too-tight braids can yield.
So, we went to expert hair stylists Alicia Bailey and Kayah Pounce and board-certified dermatologists Brendan Camp, MD, and Marisa Garshick, MD, to find out how to relieve the pain and tension caused by too-tight braids. Keep scrolling to learn more.
Meet the Expert
- Alicia Bailey is a hair texture expert and the global education manager at Design Essentials.
- Kayah Pounce is a texture expert at Maggie Rose Salon.
- Brendan Camp, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York City.
- Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell—New York Presbyterian Medical Center.
Run Your Braids Under Water
A warm shower isn't just good for the body—it can also help loosen tight braids. "If the braids are too tight, one can try to run their hair under cool or warm water in the shower," says Bailey. To loosen the braids, you may need to rub your scalp (gently).
This is not the time to worry about how much money you just spent and how much time it took to style these braids. Instead, concern yourself with loosening up the tight style and saving your hairline: Bailey says tight braids can also lead to thinning of the hair or hairline and hair breakage.
Wear Your Hair Down
Believe it or not, wearing your hair up in a ponytail or bun post-braiding can exacerbate the pain. "Try not to manipulate the braids too much by pulling them up in ponytails or trying to style them in any way," says Bailey. Camp adds that prolonged tension on the hair from tight hairstyles, braids, buns, or ponytails can weaken the root of the follicle. Over time, the hair follicle may become permanently damaged, leading to hair loss.
Wear your hair down to loosen any tension, thus weighing the braids down. This is a simple way to not tug at the roots or scalp.
Use Leave-in Conditioner
"If a hairstyle pulls on the scalp and is causing pain, then it is likely too tight and causing mechanical damage to the hair follicle," explains Garshick. If your scalp feels more dry and tense than usual, apply a leave-in conditioner to soothe the area and loosen up the braids. Try using a spray leave-in conditioner you can easily spritz between your braids and evenly across your scalp, like Cantu's Shea Butter Hydrating Leave-In Conditioning Mist. However, keep in mind that too much leave-in conditioner can cause unwanted build-up and residue.
Give Yourself a Scalp Massage
Sometimes you need to take matters into your own hands—literally. A scalp massage isn't just stimulating; it soothes tension, too. A quick scalp massage can increase blood circulation, aiding in alleviating pain all around.
Pounce recommends adding essential oils to your carrier oil of choice. "To help soothe the tension on your scalp, gently massage tea tree oil or lavender oil into the area where you're experiencing discomfort," she advises. "Both of these oils have soothing properties that ease inflammation." Apply the hair oil on your fingertips before getting in between your braids and massaging for a few minutes. Try Pattern Beauty's Jojoba Oil Hair Serum as a carrier oil for maximum hydration and soothing effects. However, as essential oils can lead to chemical burns and irritation for some, it's always best to test the oil on a discrete area before applying all over.
Try a Hair Steamer
Sometimes your braids need a little steam. Not to be confused with a hooded hair dryer, a hair steamer is meant to open up the pores on your scalp. This makes it easier for braids to loosen up while your scalp retains more moisture. To get the maximum benefits of steaming your braids, try the Q-Redew Hair Steamer.
Take Out Your Braids
We know this is not the tip you want to read after sitting in your braider's chair for hours, but you should remove braids that cause little bumps on your scalp. Tight braids can lead to hair loss down the road, especially if you make a habit of wearing tight braid styles. "If the braids are unbearably tight, I highly recommend taking them out to prevent hair loss or breakage," says Pounce.
If you do need to remove your braids, be sure to give your hair and scalp some much-needed TLC. Try a hot oil treatment or a soothing oil specifically formulated for the scalp with calming and anti-inflammatory ingredients. You can use either of these options as a pre-poo before following up with a calming deep conditioner.
Communicate With Your Stylist
Do yourself a favor and see how your head feels when you're still in the stylist's chair. Does it hurt while she's braiding? That's the time to ask her to ease up. It's much easier for her to take a step back and possibly redo any braids during your appointment than to call and ask her to redo them later. Plus, let's face it: Not all braiders take kindly to second-day phone calls and may refuse a do-over.
The next time you get your hair braided, keep an open line of communication with your stylist: If you're sitting in the salon chair and your braids feel too tight, let the braider know. On the other hand, you can always tell them beforehand that your scalp is tender and you do not like extra-tight braids. If a stylist doesn't alter their technique, they're not the stylist for you.
Do Not Return to Tight Braiders
Some braiders are notoriously hard on hair. Once should be enough to tell you that this is someone who doesn't care about the health of your scalp. Hopefully, you live in an area with options, but if you don't, you may need to rethink braid extensions as a regular hairstyle.
What Happens When Braids Are Too Tight?
"Tight braids can potentially cause permanent damage to the scalp and the hair," says Bailey. She explains that when braids are too tight, they can potentially cause soreness or follicular pustules (inflamed, sore, raised bumps on the scalp) in addition to traction alopecia.
"Traction alopecia is hair loss caused by continuous tension on the hair follicle," Camp explains. "Tight hairstyles, such as buns or braids, can weaken the root of the hair follicle. Traction alopecia is biphasic, which means that, initially, the hair loss is temporary and can be repaired if the tension on the follicle is removed. If the tension continues, the hair loss can be... permanent." Garshick adds that while traction alopecia can initially be considered non-scarring, it can evolve into a scarring hair loss if not addressed.
