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Whenever we hear about a buzzy new skincare ingredient that's simultaneously boasting under-the-radar anonymity, our ears prick up. And most recently, astaxanthin is garnering tons of attention on Amazon, most notably for its glow-boosting benefits. (Btw, it's pronounced "asta-zan-thin.")
And, although it does sound like some kind of hybrid between an antibiotic and a rare, prehistoric species of dinosaur, astaxanthin actually falls into the category of something supremely more recognizable: antioxidants. That being said, not all antioxidants are created equally, and astaxanthin is essentially the Clark Kent of all carotenoids (the class of antioxidants that gives healthy food fare like salmon, tomatoes, persimmons, and carrots their glowing hue of orange.) Intrigued? Keep reading for more about the benefits of astaxanthin with information gleaned from industry experts.
Meet the Expert
- Joshua Zeichner, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, and the Director of Cosmetic & Clinical Research in Dermatology at Mt. Sinai Hospital.
- Dr. Hadley King is a board-certified dermatologist and a Clinical Instructor of Dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University.
- Marisa Plescia is a cosmetic chemist and research scientist at clean beauty e-tailer NakedPoppy.
What Is Astaxanthin?
Astaxanthin's best descriptor is that it's a powerful antioxidant—one that does a world of good for the skin. "Astaxanthin is a potent antioxidant known as a carotenoid, found in various foods," says dermatologist, Joshua Zeichner, MD. "It naturally has a bright red/orange color, and its high content in salmon is what gives it its color. It also is found in some forms of red algae. Studies have shown that the antioxidant ability of astaxanthin is much more powerful than Vitamin C."
Astaxanthin
Type of Ingredient: Carotenoid (yellow, orange, and red pigments that are produced by plants, algae, and bacteria).
Main Benefits: Improves dryness, protects the skin against free radicals and sun damage.
Who Should Use It: It is recommended for those of all ages and skin types and is especially beneficial for those with damaged skin.
How Often Can You Use It: It is safe to use morning and night.
Works Well With: Moisturizers.
Don't Use With: Generally, astaxanthin is safe to use with all other ingredients.
What Does Astaxanthin Do for Your Skin?
A 2012 study found that daily oral and topical supplementation with astaxanthin improved skin texture and elasticity, reduced age spot size, and even addressed crow’s feet.While more data is needed to confirm those findings, research has found that the powerhouse ingredient can do wonders for the skin, fighting everything from sun damage to fine lines and wrinkles. According to a 2018 review, astaxanthin's benefits might be more comprehensive than previous research suggests, and include "photoprotective, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects."
Benefits of Astaxanthin
• Protects against UV rays: It's worth mentioning astaxanthin's natural knack for protecting our skin against damaging UV rays when ingested or used topically.
• Repairs DNA damage: The fact that it protects against UV rays is actually a twofold benefit as sun damage causes DNA damage. Fortunately, astaxanthin helps with that. That same 2018 study mentioned above found that ASX has been reported: "to improve the DNA repair capacity of cells exposed to UV radiation." In other words, it may slow the growth of skin cancer cells.
• Enhances the immune system: Astaxanthin has been found to increase the body's stores of immunoglobulin, which can help the immune system fight against viruses and even melanoma, according to the 2018 review.
• Wards off wrinkles: "Astaxanthin has been shown to neutralize free radical damage, calm inflammation in the skin in eczema, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in aging skin," notes Dr. Zeichner.
• Protects against hyperpigmentation: Again, this goes back to astaxanthin's antioxidant properties: "The generation of free radicals, also known as reactive oxygen species (ROS), is highly connected to skin aging," says cosmetic chemist, Marisa Plescia. "Thus, astaxanthin can help protect the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation in addition to helping repair DNA damage due to UV rays."
• Moisturizes: Some studies point out that combining a topical dosage with an oral dosage (we recommend this oral supplement from the geniuses at Care/of) might help youth-preserving efforts in the long run (e.g. less pigmentation and more luminosity and moisture).
• Fights free radicals: Astaxanthin is a powerful antioxidant and is sometimes referred to as the “strongest antioxidant in nature,” and it's no wonder. "With high levels of well-known antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E, astaxanthin can help the skin respond to oxidative damage from environmental aggressors, such as the sun, as well as inhibit free radical formation," says Plescia.
• Ideal for those with sensitive skin: As Plescia points out, "Astaxanthin has also been studied to have anti-inflammatory properties aiding in skin redness, sensitivity, and inflammation."
Side Effects of Astaxanthin
When used topically, astaxanthin's side effects are minimal. When ingested, however, some studies have suggested it could prove problematic for those with autoimmune conditions and may have an effect on the production of testosterone in the body.
How to Use It
Serums, moisturizers, and oils containing astaxanthin can be used morning and night, depending upon what else is in the products. In fact, it might even be a good idea to combine it with other powerhouse antioxidants such as vitamins C or E. "Studies indicate that it works with other antioxidants to boost their potency," says dermatologist, Hadley King, MD. Her personal recommendations? DHC All-In-One Collagen Gel to "hydrate the skin and fight off damage from free radicals," or Derma E's Anti-Aging Regenerative Night Cream for a richer formula. Dr. Zeichner, on the other hand, is partial to Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum. As always, when trying a new product, it's best to conduct a patch test to ensure your skin isn't sensitive to any ingredients.
Astaxanthin vs. Vitamin C
With its tell-tale color and host of protective qualities, it can be easy to confuse this carotenoid with a misleadingly similar antioxidant: vitamin C. But that's where the similarities end as experts agree astaxanthin is a cut above the rest. As Dr. Zeichner noted, according to research, astaxanthin contains significantly more antioxidants than other superfood heroes, is anywhere from 10 to 100 times more powerful than other carotenoids like beta-carotene and lycopene, and may even be significantly more potent than skin-enhancing vitamin C and vitamin E. However, as Dr. King mentioned above, the two ingredients don't just play well together, they amplify one another's potency when combined. Talk about a power couple. We love the advanced formula of 3LAB Perfect C Treatment Serum for an effective blend.
