What Is a Skin Essence, and Do You Really Need One?

Whenever there is something new in skincare—be it unique products or a cutting-edge beauty treatment—chances are we're going to look to Korea. The country originates so many firsts in the skincare industry. So it might come as no surprise that we have Korea to thank for the surge of skin essences cropping up in our bathroom cabinets. "The trend for skin essences became more popular with the rise of K-beauty skin regimes," says Megan Felton, co-founder of skincare consultancy firm Lionne.

But what exactly is a skin essence, and do we really need to be using one? We spoke to Felton and board-certified dermatologists Brendan Camp, MD, and Rachel Nazarian, MD, to find out what a skin essence really is and if it deserves a place in your routine.

What Is a Skin Essence?

An essence is "a skincare product that is water-based, often in solution or liquid form, meant to be sprayed or applied on the skin directly after cleansing," says Nazarian.

Camps adds that an essence "fortifies the skin with hydration or active ingredients that help target a specific skin concern." Some common ingredients found in skin essences include:

• Hydrators such as hyaluronic acid
• Antioxidants like niacinamide and vitamin C, which "neutralize free-radical damage and decrease inflammation," says Nazarian
• Probiotics and prebiotics such as lactobacillus, which Nizarian says are "super trendy these days as we learn more about the importance of a healthy skin microbiome"
• Exfoliants such as salicylic acid, which help "improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines," says Camp

Benefits of a Skin Essence

• Hydrates skin: "Many skin essences can help to add in an extra layer of hydration for dehydrated skin and are great for priming the face for makeup," says Felton.
• Soothes irritation: Skin essences can aid in reducing redness and skin irritation as they are usually comprised of products that help calm and soothe the skin, such as chamomile and aloe.
• Absorbs into the skin: According to Felton, an essence often has similar benefits to a serum, meaning it will have a lower molecular weight than a moisturizer and will, therefore, penetrate the skin more deeply.
• Brightening: According to Camp, a skin essence can also help brighten the skin, thanks to glycolic acid, a main ingredient in most essences. He recommends Caudalie's Vinoperfect Brightening Glycolic Essence. "This essence contains antioxidant-rich grape water and gently exfoliating glycolic acid, which helps reduce the appearance of sunspots and eliminate dead skin cells," he says.

How to Apply a Skin Essence

Essences are pressed into the skin after cleansing and should be treated like serums when applied. Water-based (thinner) essences should go on first; then, work your way up to your thicker products like moisturizers and SPF.

Potential Side Effects of Skin Essences

Both derms agree that essences are typically well-tolerated by all skin types. According to Nazarian, essences come with very few side effects—unless the active ingredients are naturally somewhat irritating, such as an exfoliating acid like glycolic acid or retinol. "[The] risk of irritability increases when used in this form as it is being applied directly to cleansed skin in a way that increases penetration," she explains.

And as always, allergies to any ingredients are a possibility, so read the label carefully when selecting beauty products.

Skin Essences vs. Serums vs. Toners

A skin essence is neither a toner nor a serum, but there are similarities between the three. "Essences tend to be lightweight products that contain hydrating or anti-aging ingredients, albeit usually at a lower concentration than a serum. They are meant to add additional benefits to the skin," says Camp.

Toners, which also have the consistency of water, contain "astringent properties to tone and clean more thoroughly and remove additional oil and dirt," says Nazarian. These properties balance the skin's pH, leaving it brighter.

Serums, according to Camp, are used to target a specific concern and deliver a high concentration of an active ingredient to address it. Nazarian adds that they are similar in that they "offer more potent concentrations and delivery of ingredients, but have less water content than an essence or toner." Therefore, serums are applied after essences and toners in your skincare regimen.

The Final Takeaway

While skin essences have their benefits, ultimately, adding one to your routine is entirely up to you and what you're willing to invest in skincare—in terms of time and money. "While the addition of a skin essence (for me personally) isn't an essential step in a skincare regime, it certainly can be a bonus," says Felton.

"Since essences are water-based, they can enhance the penetration of the ingredients that follow in your skincare regimen," says Nazarian. "Their ingredients vary depending on the skin concern targeted: hydration, irritation/inflammation, anti-aging, pigment, etc." So ultimately, while a skin essence is a nice addition to your skincare routine, it's not as crucial as, say, your moisturizer.