How to Try "Underpainting"—the Key to a Naturally Sculpted Makeup Look

Hailey Bieber — @maryphillips / @haileybieber

"Underpainting" is arguably one of TikTok's most viral makeup techniques, with the hashtag amassing over 185 million views on the app. This trick, which involves applying products like contour underneath foundation, has been used by MUAs for decades for quite a few reasons. Specifically, the unconventional makeup method helps create a look that appears more natural, blended, and glowy. Ready to incorporate underpainting into your routine? Ahead, two professional makeup artists explain the underpainting process step by step.

Meet the Expert

Eddie Duyos is a professional makeup artist and senior manager of professional education and makeup artistry for Make Up For Ever.
Michelle Clark is a professional makeup artist and the global senior artist at MAC Cosmetics.

What Is Underpainting?

Underpainting is a makeup application technique that involves applying complexion products like blush and contour under your foundation for a more natural finish. The technique has gone viral thanks to makeup artist Mary Phillips, known for regularly painting notable faces like Hailey Bieber, Kendall Jenner, and Jennifer Lopez. While underpainting uses the same products you'd typically wear (think: blush, bronzer, or concealer), the order in which products are applied sets this method apart. When underpainting, you apply contour, concealer, and blush before foundation. "The underpainting technique is used to build dimension from underneath," Duyos explains. "While this technique is currently trending, it has been around for decades and was predominantly and originally used in prosthetics."

The Benefits of Underpainting

Duyos says one of the benefits of underpainting is that it is "a seamless and quick application process." Beyond that, it undoubtedly helps enhance the finish of your makeup. "It helps to create a smooth contour and highlight that is undetectable and creates a very natural dimension," he notes. Clark echoes these sentiments, "Underpainting helps to create a smooth contour and undetectable highlight. Using this technique allows you to use less product and still enhance your bone structure in a way that looks very natural."

How to Underpaint

01 of 08

Prep Your Skin

model applying cream to skin — Ashley rebecca

Your skin must be prepped and hydrated before underpainting. "Make sure your skin is prepped and still slightly damp, as it will help the blending process," Clark adds. To ensure my skin is hydrated and glowing, I prepped my skin with Babor Hyaluronic Acid Power Serum Ampoule and Alastin A-Luminate Brightening Serum.

02 of 08

Apply Concealer

Model is applying concealer to the under eye area — ashley rebecca

After the skincare products were absorbed into my skin, I moved on to concealer. Duyos recommends using cream formulas for underpainting. ''Begin with concealer to highlight your undereye area to brighten and smooth before going in with your contour," he says. I applied Make Up For Ever HD Skin Smooth and Blur Undetectable Under Eye Concealer under my eyes and blended it out.

03 of 08

Start Contouring

model showing contour applied to cheekbones, forehead, nose and jawline — ashley rebecca

After the concealer, I moved on to contour. Clark emphasized the importance of applying and blending your contour with clean brushes, "Brush choice is important here," she says. "Make sure you have a separate brush for each step so it doesn't get muddy. I recommend laying the contour down with a small contour brush like Mac Cosmetics Small Synthetic Contour Brush #109." I applied Armani Beauty Luminous Silk Glow Bronzer Drops in 90 on my cheekbones, forehead, around the nose, chin, and jawline and blended it in until it looked natural.

04 of 08

Use Concealer to Highlight

model blending highlight around the eye, nose, forehead and brow area — ashley rebecca

Once I blended my contour, I moved on to highlighting. I applied the same concealer that I used under my eyes—placing product between my brows, inner and outer corners of my eyes, brow bone, and nose area. I blended everything using the sponge side of the Real Techniques Miracle 2-In-1 Dual-Sided Powder Puff.

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Apply Foundation

model showing foundation on the forehead, cheek, and chin area — ashley rebecca

After highlighting, I applied Cle de Peau Beaute Radiant Fluid Foundation in B10 to my forehead, cheek area, chin, and anywhere else I wanted a little more coverage. I blended the foundation in a circular motion on my skin until it looked seamless.

06 of 08

Apply Powder

model applying loose powder under the eyes and blending it out with a dual sided orange and pink sponge — ashley rebecca

To brighten and smooth my under-eye area, I applied Mob Beauty Blurring Translucent Loose Powder under my eyes and let it bake for a few minutes before blending it in. To help your contour appear more defined, you can also apply loose powder around the area.

07 of 08

Add a Touch of Blush

model showing cream blush being blended to the apples of the cheeks — ashley rebecca

Next, I applied the Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Lip and Cream Blush Stick in Coquette to the apples of my cheeks. I then blended it out and upward to create a lifted effect.

08 of 08

Apply Finishing Touches

model showing complete makeup look with mascara, eyebrows and lipcolor — ashley rebecca

To complete the look, I applied a few coats of Soshe Beauty G.L.A.M Refillable Mascara to elevate my lashes, brushed my eyebrows with Ilia In Frame Clear Eyebrow Gel, and filled in my brows with Ilia In-Full Micro Tip Eyebrow Pencil in Auburn Brown. I added Tata Harper Lip Creme in Risque for a soft lip with a touch of color.

The Final Takeaway

While it might take some getting used to, underpainting is worth incorporating into your makeup routine. As mentioned, the technique is more efficient as it requires less product. Plus, it helps your makeup appear more natural, diffused, and radiant. Just remember: The key to pulling off this method is thoroughly prepping your skin, using cream-based products, and blending as much as possible.

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