Skincare for women over 50 can feel like a full-time job. As we age, skincare concerns ranging from hollowness to sagging and brown spots pop up, and it can feel like an uphill battle to maintain a youthful glow. The good news? There's an art to aging beautifully, and we tapped the experts to help us master it. Below, seasoned beauty writer Julyne Derrick shares her unfiltered, first-hand experience with skincare for women over 50. We've also included professional advice and product recommendations from board-certified dermatologists Dr. Dendy Engleman and Dr. Patricia Wexler, as well as a tip from plastic surgeon Steven J. Pearlman.
Wear Sunscreen Every Day
I know it's tedious to constantly hear about the importance of sunscreen, but if there is one beauty rule I'd tell my 15-year-old self it's to wear a decent sunscreen every day. Nothing damages your skin more than exposure to the sun. It's the number one cause of skin cancer and a major cause of brown spots and wrinkles.
Here's the catch: not all sunscreens are created equal. You should choose a sunscreen of at least 30 SPF and you should choose one that blocks UVA and UVB rays.
Three things to remember once you've found the right sunscreen:
- You should wear it rain or shine. UV rays break through cloud cover and it's important to make a habit of using sunscreen daily. And don't worry, it won't clog your pores as long as you cleanse your face at night.
- Reapply throughout the day. The renowned dermatologist Patricia Wexler insists that all women (whatever their skin tone) reapply sunscreen throughout the day.
- Slather some on top of your hands. Dermatologists say they can tell a woman's age by looking at her hands, in addition to her neck.
Product recommendations: I prefer tinted sunscreen because it doesn't leave a white cast on my face and it evens out my skin tone. Neutrogena Healthy Defense Daily Face Moisturizer ($15) is a good drugstore version. However, my favorite (recommended by my dermatologist) is the pricey but fabulous La Roche Posay tinted sunscreen ($40). For a mineral option, MDSolarSciences makes an SPF 50 cream ($32) that has a deliciously velvety feel.
Byrdie Tip
Apply sunscreen with a foam sponge for a more even application.
Choose the Right Cleansers and Moisturizers
It's very important to choose cleansers, moisturizers, and a skincare routine formulated for your skin type.
If you have oily skin, consider yourself lucky. Oily skin tends to develop fewer wrinkles. If you have sensitive skin, you should test all of your products on your neck or arms before you use them. That product you loved a few years ago may (as you advance in age) now cause redness.
You may have also noticed the older you get, the drier your skin becomes. As we age, our skin suffers a slowdown in oil production and cell turnover, especially after menopause. I noticed my naturally oily skin turned as dry as the Sahara Desert at age 35.
Product recommendations: Dr. Loretta's Gentle Hydrating Cleanser ($35) is a dermatologist-formulated salve for women over 50. It's formulated with marine peptides that are great for hydrating the skin — leave it on for a few minutes before rinsing it off for extra hydration. As for moisturizer, if you have very dry skin that gets flaky, then the extra moisturizing benefits of Yu-Be Moisturizing Skin Cream ($18) are a godsend. I also like to use extra virgin coconut oil on my face.
Don't Forget the Toner
"As our skin ages, it tends to be more prone to dehydration. I love looking for a gentle toner enriched in ceramides to leave the skin feeling smooth, soft and refreshed," says dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman.
Product recommendations: Dr. Engelman is partial to Elizabeth Arden's Ceramide Purifying Toner ($32.) "It is gentle on the skin, fragrance-free, and gently cleanses, purifies and smoothes the skin," she says.
Glow Recipe's newly launched Cloudberry Bright Essence Toner ($38) is packed with polypeptides, which can smooth fine lines and wrinkles and help with collagen production. It also has hyaluronic acid to plump up hollow skin, and its star ingredient — cloudberry concentrate — is rich in vitamins C and E, which are excellent for hydrating and plumping the skin.
Brighten Skin With Vitamin C
"For skin brightening, I recommend using a Vitamin C serum to help protect the skin against free radicals and prevent premature skin aging," Dr. Engelman says. "Vitamin C also inhibits melanin production which helps treat dark spots and hyperpigmentation."
Product Recommendations: For an extra dose of ceramides and vitamin C, Dr. Engelman recommends Elizabeth Arden's Vitamin C Ceramide Capsules Radiance Renewal Serum ($54.) "This serum helps to visibly brighten skin, even tone and protect against premature aging signs," she says.
What to Do If Your Skin Is Dry
To keep dry skin in the best condition possible, it's important to cleanse with proper products that won't zap skin of moisture. You also have to exfoliate. Most importantly, you'll need to keep your skin moisturized throughout the day.
Here are some tips to keep your face from drying out:
- Don't use hot water. This only strips your skin of oils. Instead, use lukewarm water or skip the water and cleanse skin with a cold cream such as Pond's ($6).
- Use a creamy cleanser formulated for dry skin and don't break the bank on pricey brands that only stay on your face for a few minutes.
- Thick, moisturizing creams and oils will help lock moisture in. Always apply at night and in the morning under your makeup.
- Consider investing in a product containing hyaluronic acid, which is one of the hottest ingredients in skincare right now. Hyaluronic acid effectively plumps up the skin by helping it absorb and hold onto moisture.
- Exfoliate at least on a weekly basis. If you have dry skin, you likely have flaky skin, so you should exfoliate twice a week. Consider using alpha hydroxy acids, which are a great option for most skin types.
- To keep the rest of your body moisturized, stay away from drying soaps in the shower and opt for moisturizing body washes instead. Saltair, whose body oils have gone viral, recently launched Golden Hour Oil-Infused Body Wash ($15.) The cleanser contains a blend of oils that's super rich in hydrating lipids — plus, it smells like a vacation. After your shower, it's important to moisturize. You can use drugstore lotions (like Eucerin and Cerave) or oils (I'm partial to extra virgin coconut oil and almond oil).
Key Ingredients
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the human body. It acts as a cushioning and lubrication agent for our joints, nerves, hair, skin, and eyes. When used in skincare, it acts as a moisture binder, which means that it will attach itself to the water in the cells (while also attracting and holding water from the air) making them plump.
Glow Recipe has a fabulous product for this: Its Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream ($39) delivers on its promise of dewy moisture and plumped-up skin.
Find an Oil You Love
Oils are one of the hottest trends in skin care today, and that's for good reason: oils are hydrating and nourishing to the skin, leaving it glowy and moisturized. I prefer oils to creams because they are more natural, glide on smoothly, and leave skin feeling plump and dewy.
Product recommendations: Tula makes an overnight oil concentrate ($74) that's designed to fight fine lines and wrinkles while you sleep. This list of best face oils is endless so experiment with a few to find your best option.
Exfoliation Is Key
Exfoliation is a must as we age. "The outer layer is a roof of dead skin, and it thickens as you age, so you need to exfoliate to see more of the fresher skin," advises Dr. Steven J. Pearlman, a New York City plastic surgeon.
Dr. Dendy Engelman adds: "Exfoliating is a must for mature skin to remove dead skin cell buildup and expose brighter, younger-looking skin underneath." However, she cautions: "As we age, the outer layer of skin becomes more delicate and thin, so I would advise not over-exfoliating and potentially causing micro-tears in the skin."
Product recommendations: "For gentle exfoliation, I recommend using Humphrey’s Clarifying Cleansing Pads ($11) to remove any buildup of dirt, excess oil, and impurities," Dr. Engelman says.
"For mild chemical exfoliation, I recommend the M-61’s Powerglow Peel pads ($68)," she continues. "These contain glycolic and salicylic acid to improve skin tone, texture, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in one step."
Try Retinol
People ask me all the time if there's some sort of cream they can get at the drugstore that will turn back the hands of time. There isn't. But there is a miracle cream and it's no longer prescription only. The secret is vitamin A derivatives retinol and prescription strength retinoids (i.e., Retin A). A good retinol cream every night will help diminish fine lines and wrinkles because it penetrates to the lower layers where the collagen is.
Key Ingredients
Retin-A (tretinoin) is a form of vitamin A that helps the skin renew itself by encouraging cell turnover. It's commonly prescribed for acne, fine lines, and sun damaged skin.
Product recommendations: I used Retin-A until my dry skin couldn't take it anymore. Now, I use an over-the-counter retinol. There are many OTCs available today but they can be pricey, so shop around depending on your budget.
For a more affordable OTC option, try the Baebody Retinol Face Moisturizer ($20), which is carried at Target and other chains. It's lightweight, cruelty-free, and safe for use on sensitive skin. The brand also makes a Retinol Facial Serum ($17.)
Alternatively, Elizabeth Arden has a retinol targeted line that includes the Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Eye Cream ($69.) It's made with encapsulated retinol, which releases slowly over an eight-hour period to brighten the eyes, reduce puffiness, and improve skin tone.
Consider Injectables
The truth is, if you want to reduce the signs of wrinkles and the loss of fat in your cheeks, Botox and fillers are the way to go. I know this because I've tried them myself. Botox will lift your eyes so you appear more awake and younger while also freezing the smile lines that etch themselves in along your eyes. Fillers will plump up your cheeks. Many women plump up their lips with them too.
If you're wondering if injections hurt, then the answer is yes. However, your injector will offer numbing cream to mitigate any discomfort. Personally, I found the Botox injections didn't hurt as much as the fillers. You'll also have some bruising afterward, so I'd advise getting them done when you don't have plans for 24 hours.
Try Chemical Peels and Lasers
Lasers are used for a variety of skin problems. They can be costly and painful, but many women swear by them. The non-ablative lasers that are on the market today can get rid of age spots, sun spots, scars, and uneven texture.
You can have a light chemical peel at your doctor's office to improve your skin tone and texture and soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. And as an added bonus, they're less expensive than lasers. For optimal results, try a series of six or more that get stronger as your skin adapts.
Product recommendations: The NIRA Pro Laser ($599) was designed for at-home use, and can reduce the appearance of wrinkles after you use it for just a few minutes a day, for around 90 days. It may sound intimidating to use a laser at home, but rest assured: This product is FDA-approved, non-painful, and clinically tested. (Because I needed a bit more surety, I brought the device to my own dermatologist, and she deemed it safe for me to use at home. But as always, ask your own doctor before proceeding with any device.)
For an at-home peel, True Botanicals makes the At-Home Facialist Peel ($65.) The formulation has powerful exfoliants — including AHA, BHA, and PHA — to even out skin tone and uncover a smoother, complexion. At the same time, it hydrates the skin with a unique electrolyte-mineral complex that gives the complexion that coveted, glass-skin look.