Micellar water is beloved by many with sensitive skin for its ability to cleanse and even remove makeup without stripping the skin of its beneficial oils. It has gained a devoted following due to its many benefits and low price tag. The secret behind micellar water's powerful clean? Micelles.
Understanding the science behind micelles, it's easy to see why they would also make good cleansers for the hair and scalp. To learn more about it, we turned to board-certified dermatologists Jayne Bird, MD, FAAD, Rachel Nazarian, MD, Wendy Long Mitchell, MD, and Connie Yang, MD, for their expert opinions.
Meet the Expert
- Jayne Bird, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Philadelphia and the co-owner of Embrace Dermatology and Aesthetics, LLC.
- Rachel Nazarian, MD, of Schweiger Dermatology, is a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in general dermatology, cosmetic dermatology, skin cancer, and dermatological surgery.
- Wendy Long Mitchell, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Manhattan Dermatology and a clinical assistant professor at the NYU Grossman School of Medicine.
- Connie Yang, MD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at PFRANKMD.
Are micelles for hair the answer to gentle cleansing? Keep reading to find out if you should be using micellar cleansers in your hair.
Micelles for Hair
Type of ingredient: Cleanser
Main benefits: Gently cleanses the hair and scalp, regulates sebum, and removes harsh minerals, dirt, and pollution. "Micelles act as magnets for dirt, oil, and makeup and allow for gentle [cleansing] without... harsh scrubbing," says Yang.
Who should use it: In general, micelles are safe for all hair types. Micellar cleansers are most effective for those with thin, oily, or curly hair. "The micelles are great at removing extra oil and debris," Yang explains. "It can be a great way to add volume to finer hair types by helping to remove oil that can weigh down the hair."
How often can you use it: Micelles are safe for up to once daily use as they do not strip the scalp and hair of necessary oils, but this may vary depending on your hair type.
Works well with: Micelles work well with clarifying shampoo for particularly oily or dirty hair.
Don’t use with: There are no known ingredients that negatively interact with micelles.
Benefits of Micelles for Hair
Micelles are oil-in-water suspensions that act as surfactants when applied to the hair and scalp. Surfactants are cleaning agents that substitute soap, and they work by weakening the physicochemical binding between impurities and the hair. Surfactants dissolve these impurities, preventing them from binding to the hair shaft or the scalp. "Micelles are molecules composed of charged atoms called ions, which are often made up of hydrophilic ends (water-loving) and hydrophobic ends (oil-loving)," Bird says. Micellar cleansers provide gentle cleansing of impurities like dirt, excess oil, and hair products without stripping the hair.
- Gently cleanses the scalp and hair: The experts agree that micelles provide gentle cleansing to the scalp and hair that does not strip them of their natural oils. "Micelles are used as a super gentle method of cleansing; micelles are oil-in-water suspensions, essentially surfactants, that attract dirt and bacteria, but gently, without stripping moisture from your hair or skin," Nazarian says.
- Prevents excess oil production: While micelles help to cleanse the scalp and hair of excess oil, they can also prevent the production of these oils. Bird says micelles are great for people with oily hair, as oil overproduction can happen if you strip the scalp of its oils, and micellar shampoo gently removes the oil without causing too much drying.
- Cleans curls without sulfates: Curly and wavy hair types often avoid or infrequently use products that contain sulfates, as they can be drying and disruptive to their curl pattern. Bird says micellar shampoos are safe for all hair types, including color-treated hair, as they are sulfate-free. Adds Mitchell: "It is cleansing but doesn't dry out your hair."
- Removes pollutants from hair: "Micelles are useful for cleansing the scalp and hair because the hydrophobic ends attract and remove sebum (excess oil) and product buildup (including dry shampoo), and the hydrophilic ends attract and remove harsh minerals, dirt, and pollution," Bird tells us. Pollutants can leave lingering scents on the hair, so micelles also work to remove these odors.
- Boosts overall scalp health: Excess oil production and buildup can lead to an oily scalp and other issues. Micellar cleansers work to remove these impurities and maintain the integrity of the scalp's skin barrier.
Hair Type Considerations
Our experts agree that micelles are safe for all hair types, but they may be more beneficial for some hair types than others. "Ideally [micellar hair products] would be used on oily, thin, [and/or] delicate hair once in a while to give volume," Nazarian advises. Bird agrees and adds that they're great for giving volume to oily hair as well, saying "micellar shampoo gently removes the oil without causing too much drying—great for maintaining volume." Micellar cleansers are also helpful for those with curly or wavy hair who don't like to use sulfates often, as they can cleanse without disrupting the hair's natural oils.
When it comes to color-treated hair, the verdict on micelles is mixed. Bird mentions that since micelles are sulfate-free, they're less harsh on color-treated hair. However, Nazarian warns that micelles may remove hair coloring a bit more rapidly than basic shampoos. While Bird says micellar products are generally safe, even for those with sensitive skin, she adds that she always recommends reading the list of ingredients to ensure a given product doesn't contain anything you may be sensitive or allergic to.
How to Use Micelles for Hair
While our experts agree on what micelles can do for the hair and scalp, they have slightly different opinions on how often to use them. Since they're so gentle, Bird says that they can be used daily. Nazarian agrees that micelles are gentle, but believes that micellar cleansers should not be used in place of shampooing regularly: "Many people can use them in place of dry shampoo to remove dirt and oil without actually having to wash their hair, but again, once weekly would be my recommendation." The experts agree that hair does need additional cleansing, which can vary depending on your hair type and how many styling products you use.
Micelles are not something you would seek out on their own, as they're created in the lab and incorporated as part of beauty product formulations. Nazarian says micelles are in shampoos, spray-on products, and even conditioners and masks. When trying a micellar cleanser in your hair for the first time, start with once a week and see how your hair and scalp respond before increasing the frequency.