Do Lash Growth Serums Work? How to Choose and Use Them

For the majority of us, achieving long, full lashes is on the top of our #beautygoals list. Apart from making you appear more feminine, long lashes create that coveted wide-awake look. (Hey, it's why we spend so much money on lengthening mascaras.) For those who prefer to go makeup-free though, lash growth serums are said to come in handy—but do they even work?

The concept sounds almost too good to be true. After all, there are countless moisturizers that claim to be "Botox in a jar" which we all know is false. So, how would lash serum be "falsies in a bottle?" Well, it turns out there's a good amount of science behind these products.

To better understand how lash growth serums work and what people can expect from using them, we tapped two experts. Below, they outline what to look for, how they differ from lash conditioners, where Latisse fits in the conversation, and even list a few of their favorite products.

What Are Lash Serums?

Before we get started, let's get one thing straight: "Lash serums are growth-enhancing formulas that stimulate lash growth," says Frieling. When applied regularly, she explains that the lash serum extends the telogen phase of growth, lengthening the lash growth cycle. As a result, lashes will continue to grow for longer until they fall out and a new one begins to grow in.

Lash Growth Serums vs Lash Conditioners

According to Frieling, lash growth serums help grow new lashes, add thickness, length, and density. Lash conditioner, on the other hand, is for people who already have ample lashes and are looking to moisturize them.

You may want to use a lash conditioner with lash growth serum to maintain and condition the new lashes that are growing. Remember to apply these formulas on clean lashes.

How Do Lash Serums Work?

Hair is made up of protein, over 80 percent keratin protein to be exact. This is where amino acids come into play. Not only are amino acids the building blocks of protein (and your eyelashes), but they may also nourish and repair damage. This is why they’re the main ingredient in so many lash-enhancement formulas. But keep an eye out: Many brands include amino acids in their formulas that go by a different name: peptides. According to Kim, peptides “nourish, condition, and strengthen frail and brittle lashes.”

Speaking of protein, collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, and we know all about its skin and hair benefits. Because of this, it is also an ingredient in many lash serums so your lashes get those same benefits.

Are Lash Serums Safe?

If used correctly, most lash serums are safe. You should follow the specific instructions of the lash serum you are using, but typically they should be applied two to three times a day on clean lashes. Do not apply lash serum while wearing contacts.

According to Frieling, if you experience any negative side effects, like itchy, red eyes, unwanted hair growth in areas the product repeatedly touches, darkening of the eyelids, reduced eye pressure, or permanently increased iris pigmentation, discontinue use immediately and see a doctor.

Latisse vs. Over-the-Counter Lash Serums: What’s the Difference?

Latisse, unlike over-the-counter lash serums, is the first and only science-based treatment approved by the FDA to enhance eyelash prominence as measured by increases in length, thickness, and darkness of eyelashes.

Latisse is only available with a prescription, while over-the-counter lash serums are available at your local drugstore and make-up counters. You should talk to your doctor about which is the best option for you.

The Best OTC Lash Serums:

Kim recommends her brand's Phyto-Medic Eyelash Enhancer ($78) as it's natural, vegan, and gluten-free, and its powerful herbal extracts promise to enhance lashes in as little as four weeks. Kim says you can also use this serum if you wear lash extensions.

For a more affordable pick, Frieling recommends Maybelline's Lash Sensational Serum ($11). Although the price tag is on the lower end, it is full of great ingredients like arginine, acid proteins, and pro-vitamin B5.

The Takeaway

Lash serum is a more permanent way to make your eyelashes fuller and longer without having to rely on mascara. While Latisse is the only lash serum approved by the FDA and requires a prescription, there are over-the-counter options available.