A Step-by-Step Guide to Creating Finger Waves

Celebrities with Finger Wave Hairstyles — Getty Images / Byrdie

Finger waves are a classic, glamorous style dating back to the 1920s. The decade's most prominent women—like famed singer, dancer, and activist Josephine Baker and award-winning actress Bette Davis—made the wavy style part of their signature look.

Though the style never fully disappeared, the S-shaped hairdo later returned to pop culture consciousness in the '90s—as rap pioneers like Missy Elliot, Foxy Brown, and Lil' Kim wore finger waves in music videos, magazine editorials, and on red carpets.

And now, with throwback beauty looks trending more than ever, finger waves are making a splash yet again. The intricate, wavy look has been spotted on today's " it girls," like Zendaya, Jodie Turner-Smith, Cara Delevigne, and many more.

Now that you have some historical context, let's get into how to create this look at home. You may have to dedicate some time to practice your technique, but we think you'll be a pro in no time.

Meet the Expert

Ursula Stephen is the owner of Ursula Stephen The Salon in Brooklyn. Her celebrity clients include Rihanna, Zendaya, and Laverne Cox. She is also an Eco Style brand ambassador.
Gonn Kinoshita is a New York-based hairstylist and Balmain Hair's East Coast ambassador.

What Are Finger Waves?

If you've ever been in the salon on a Saturday morning, you can visually identify a finger wave. But what are they exactly? "Finger waves are a hairstyle that involves shaping the hair into sleek, S-shaped patterns, typically close to the scalp," Stephen says. "This technique imparts a refined and vibrant aesthetic that evokes 1920s old Hollywood."

One thing to note about this style is that it typically works best on short hair that is relaxed, fine-textured, or has a looser curl pattern. However, modern versions have shown you can adapt the style to various textures and lengths.

How to Create Finger Waves

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Start With Freshly Washed Hair

Stephen says you must start with clean, hydrated hair before creating this sleek style. "Cleanse and condition the hair to ensure you establish an optimal base for manipulating the hair," she says

Once you've cleansed and conditioned, Kinoshita recommends applying a leave-in conditioner and oil like Balmain Hair's Argan Moisturizing Elixir ($62). It's formulated for use on damp hair and helps combat frizz, moisturize the hair, and smooth the cuticle.

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Apply a Mousse or Gel

When it comes to sculpting your waves, you have options. You can use mousse or gel. If you opt for the former, cover your head with a good blanket of mousse so you have enough slip to make your waves without tangling or snagging your hair. You may need to reapply as you go.

If you plan to use gel, which Stephen and Kinoshita prefer, you'll want to have an ample amount on hand. "The look requires a lot of gel to hold it in place, so make sure you're not skimpy with this," Stephen says. "I will take the Eco Style Olive Oil Styling Gel ($9) [and] apply it as I go to help me easily form the waves. I like gel better because it helps create structure while offering lasting hold without frizzing.

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Mold Your Hair

Next, it's time to put your combs to work. Stephen recommends using two types of combs. "I usually use a cutting comb and rattail comb to help me create the S-shape," Stephen tells us. "I use the rattail comb to help level and keep the waves in place and the cutting comb to make an S-shape." You should continue to use this technique throughout your head to the nape of your neck.

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Set Your Waves

Once you've perfected your waves, it's time to dry your hair. When trying to dry her client's hair quickly, Stephen uses a handheld hair dryer and diffuser to ensure the hair stays in place. However, when time allows, you should wrap your hair with styling strips (like Graham Beauty's Black Styling Strips, $8) and sit under a hooded dryer to fully set each wave. The length you'll need to sit under the dryer depends on your hair's thickness and length.

The Final Takeaway

Crafting finger waves is an art, but the style is not impossible to recreate at home with the proper tools. As long as you have the right combs, a lot of mousse or gel, and a dryer, you'll be able to achieve beautiful S-shaped waves. And, of course, after putting in the effort to sculpt your wavy look, you'll want to ensure they stay intact. Our experts recommend wearing a silk or satin scarf or bonnet at night to preserve the timeless style.