Navigating the fragrance space– with its intoxicating array of top notes and heady hearts– can be quite the labyrinthine experience. So if and when you do find your signature scent that evokes your very essence and complements your body's chemistry, it's quite an achievement. Yet the most complex aspect of the perfume world may be understanding the terminology, specifically decoding the tiny print at the bottom of every label. If you've ever wondered what exactly the difference between an Eau de parfum and Eau de toilette is, you've come to the right place.
With the help of fragrance experts, Mary Wallace and Pia Long, we determined what the two terms actually mean, plus how the fragrances differentiate. They also gave us insight into how to find the option that best suits you. Keep reading to learn how Eau de parfums and Eau de toilettes compare.
Meet the Expert
- Mary Wallace is the director of sales and marketing at D.S. & DURGA and a former marketing manager for the French perfumery, Diptyque.
- Pia Long is a perfumer and cofounder of Olfiction Limited, a UK-based fragrance consultancy.
What Is Eau de Parfum vs. Eau de Toilette?
As it turns out, the distinction between Eau de parfum formulas and their Eau de toilette counterparts is clear and simple. According to both Wallace and Long, it all comes down to a classification that the brand makes, based on how the perfume feels in fragrance concentration and depth. "Generally, an Eau de toilette concentration is between 8 percent and 12 percent, while an Eau de parfum concentration is between 12 percent and 18 percent, although the concentrations of EDT versus EDP can vary," Wallace explains.
Byrdie Tip
In french, "Eau" translates to water, while "toilette" refers to the bathroom or the act of washing one's self. "Eau de toilette" is fitting for a less concentrated fragrance, while "Eau de parfum" is generally richer in scent and long-lasting.
"It is important to understand that the percentage of fragrance oil in the perfume is not a simple qualitative value—because just like you would only want a certain amount of tea leaves in your pot of tea, more isn't always better," says Long. "Depending on the type of perfume, sometimes less is more—and sometimes a higher concentration is necessary to achieve the intended effect."
One thing is for sure: No matter if the specific numbers vary by product or brand, an Eau de parfum will always be more concentrated than an Eau de toilette.
Do Eau de Parfums Last Longer Than Eau de Toilettes?
What's interesting is how the scent "experience" changes between an Eau de parfum and an Eau de toilette. "As the juice is present in a higher concentration, the sillage—or lasting power of the scent—will often change, and this increased wear will change how the fragrance develops on the skin throughout the day," Wallace explains. In other words, an Eau de parfum has a higher concentration of fragrance, which results in a longer-lasting and more aromatic application.
Do Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes Have the Same Scent?
Eau de parfum and Eau de toilette might not smell the same, even if they're labeled as being the same fragrance. Depending on the brand, the actual formula may be tweaked to accommodate the different concentrations of fragrance. "For Diptyque, the Eau de parfum is not simply a more concentrated version of the Eau de toilette—the Eau de parfum is a new interpretation of the original composition. For example, in the Do Son Eau de toilette, you have tuberose, jasmine, and orange blossom in harmony, while in the Eau de parfum, you have a true overdose of tuberose. This note is amplified, which brings a different dimension to the experience of the scent," says Wallace.
According to Long, it can vary from brand to brand. "In classic perfume brands, for example, it often isn't the same scent; both have the same central theme, but the proportions of top, middle, and base notes may be balanced differently," she says. "Sometimes the theme is stretched further with additional notes or a different twist entirely. On the other hand, in many niche perfumes, for example, you may find it's the same fragrance oil, but at different concentrations."
Wallace says that's why Eau de parfums and Eau de toilettes aren't exactly interchangeable. "Often, the Eau de toilette is both lighter and fresher, while the Eau de parfum is richer and more lasting. For daytime or office wear, the Eau de toilette may be more comfortable and appropriate, while the Eau de parfum offers more depth, which can be nice for the evening," she says. You might also want to consider the temperature and time of year before choosing one over the other. "In humid and hot climates, a crisp Eau de toilette may be preferable, while in cooler weather, an Eau de parfum may offer more warmth and depth."
Eau de Parfum vs. Eau de Toilette vs. Eau de Cologne
Now that we've dissected the differences between the two main Eaus of the fragrance world, you may be wondering about a third variety gracing those impeccably designed bottles: Eau de cologne. While the term cologne often garners an inherently masculine persona, Eau de cologne isn't simply an Eau de parfum positioned for the male market, as many consumers believe it to be. In contrast, Eau de cologne is the lightest of the three categories, presenting a fragrance concentration of two to four percent which places it well below that of an Eau de toilette. Even lighter, though not as well-recognized or popular, is the Eau fraiche which is blended with a fragrance concentration of one to three percent. Unlike the other three categories, Eau fraiche uses a water base instead of alcohol and can most commonly be found bottled as aftershave.
Eau de Parfum vs. Pure Parfum
Pure parfum, as you may have guessed, offers the highest concentration of fragrance up to a heady 40 percent. While some iterations can go as low as 15 to 20 percent, the higher end of the spectrum is almost double that of an Eau de parfum. As a result, the stronger alternative presents the longest-lasting power and typically the higher price point of the two. It's also blended with lower quantities of alcohol, which makes the fragrances less irritating or sensitizing to the skin.
Do Eau de Toilettes or Parfums Ever Expire?
Like most things, Long notes, perfume does expire. "Perfume is alive and has an expiry," she says. This can be due to many facts, and there is no hard and fast rule on how long a perfume is good for, as it depends on the brand, the scent, and where it is stored.
If you're unsure, check the label on your perfume. If your perfume has oxidized due to the chemical composition, changed colors, or the scent has altered (it can smell sour, acidic, or metallic), it's probably time to toss.
And as a rule of thumb, it's best to store your fragrances in a cool, dark place. While it might seem most logical to keep them in your bathroom cabinet so you can easily spritz after getting ready, the humidity from the shower can actually cause the juice to go bad faster. Similarly, displaying your bottles on a window ledge or in direct sunlight can also speed up their shelf.
How to Choose Between Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum
In Long's experience, the best way to choose between Eau de toilette and parfum is to wear each (from a store tester or a sample or a trial size) if possible. You may find that you simply prefer one over the other. "If you're having to choose without this option, consider Eau De Toilette the likeliest to be one suitable for daytime and office wear, and Eau de Parfum the likeliest to last the night," she echoes of Wallace's statement.
The Final Takeaway
If you didn't believe it before, this should have convinced you that fragrance is indeed a fine art and not just an olfactory instinct of "this smells good" and "this doesn't." Before purchasing your next fragrance, test out both the Eau de parfum and the Eau de toilette versions. And keep in mind that although the EDT is technically lighter, it might also have different components than the EDP that has the same name, so it's not just about opting for a less concentrated, less expensive version of a scent. Also, be sure to pay mind to what time of day, time of year, and setting you'll be wearing the fragrance in. All of it matters.