Is Expensive Skincare Better? We Asked Dermatologists

If you've ever picked up a skincare item, looked at the price tag and thought really?—you're in the right place. In a world of luxury, premium, and drugstore skincare options (not to mention a bevy of dupes to choose from), it can be difficult to weed out the real deal from the watered-down version. We've all heard that higher price tags reflect better formulas, but what's the actual relationship between efficacy and cost? Let's find out.

In order to understand what exactly the difference is between expensive and inexpensive skincare products, we spoke to experts about what separates them into different categories. Wondering whether to spring for the luxury cream or respect your budget? Here’s your answer.

Is Expensive Skincare More Effective?

Just because a product is expensive does not mean it's better or more effective than a different product option at a lower price point. (In fact, plenty of drugstore brands like CeraVe, Cetaphil, La Roche-Posay, and more are known for efficacious, dermatologist-developed formulas at an affordable price point.) As Dr. Charlotte Birnbaum of Spring Street Dermatology in New York City explains, it’s not always the most expensive products that are the most scientifically proven to be effective—even if they contain “rarer” ingredients. “The difference between an affordable moisturizer versus an expensive moisturizer can be a few things: marketing, packaging, and possibly proprietary ingredients,” Birnbaum says. Proprietary ingredients are where expensive brands could technically be delivering newer technology that could potentially give the product an edge over more affordable brands. However, of the anti-aging ingredients that are most supported in the dermatological community, you'll rarely need to spend more than $30-$50 for an individual product.

Marketing and Packaging

As Dr. Charlotte Birnbaum of Spring Street Dermatology in New York City explains, it’s not always the most expensive products that are the most scientifically proven to be effective—even if they contain “rarer” ingredients. “The difference between an affordable moisturizer versus an expensive moisturizer can be a few things: marketing, packaging, and possibly proprietary ingredients,” Birnbaum says.

Celebrity aesthetician Joshua Ross agrees that marketing often increases the price of a product before anything else does. Luckily, though, Ross also shared that some brands are cutting through the marketing BS to offer direct-to-consumer products with high levels of active ingredients. “For example, the new clean skincare brand Ghost Democracy offers a lightweight silicone-free daily moisturizer packed with 12% probiotics, with 1% niacinamide and oat seed extract for just $28,” Ross suggests.

Proprietary Ingredients

Proprietary ingredients are what set products apart from one another, the parts of the formulaic composition that make this particular skincare option unique (promoted as "better") than its competitors. If you're unsure, just look at the "game-changing" ingredients that are most marketed about the product. These will usually be its proprietary ingredients, but just because they may be showy doesn't necessarily mean they can back up the price tag. “In general, expensive does not always mean better. These proprietary ingredients can be pricier as they are rare, but that does not mean they are more effective," explains Birnbaum. "Often, we are not given the scientific evidence that these ingredients are in fact, worth it.”

Texture and Feel

A product's formula can also change the way it feels on the skin. This could be a result of groundbreaking proprietary ingredients but, more often, it's just the addition or reduction of filler ingredients (like silicones, for example) that don't make much of a difference to the skin. What they do accomplish, however, is make the product feel more elevated or luxurious when applied. Think of a gooey consistency versus a silky concoction. Chances are, you'll pay extra for that elegant texture even if it produces the same results as the tackier formula.

Concentration

According to Dr. Debra Jaliman, board-certified NYC dermatologist, the main thing that contributes to how a moisturizer is priced is the concentration of certain ingredients in the formula. “An expensive moisturizer will usually have a higher concentration of the ‘good’ ingredients,” Jaliman says. “They are usually safer for all skin types. Many times they won’t contain added fragrances that can cause allergic reactions for some.”

To illustrate the difference active ingredients make, licensed aesthetician Karen Fernandez used the analogy of steeping a tea bag. “Think of a steeping a tea bag where the first cup is the strongest, but if you keep using that same tea bag it will lose its potency with every cup,” Fernandez explains. “Less expensive moisturizers have less potent ingredients that can be by-products or left-overs.”

Potency

It’s important to keep in mind, though, that there are many affordable moisturizers that will have the same effective active ingredients as their expensive counterparts—they just won’t contain nearly as much of those effective ingredients. 

“Make sure the best ingredients are at the top of a products ingredients label list,” Jaliman says, listing things like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, retinol, niacinamide, and glycerin as good ingredients. “I usually find that patients who come in with acne breakouts have at least one product in their regimen that is very inexpensive. This does not mean that all inexpensive products are bad.”

The Takeaway

All of this said, there are a ton of great, inexpensive products as well as not-so-great pricey ones. You just have to do your research. Look at the ingredients list, check it with Byrdie's Clean Beauty Pledge, and patch test to make sure your skin doesn't have a bad reaction. Additionally, it may make more sense for you to splurge on serums (which penetrate deeper and offer more potency) than a moisturizer. Whether you decide to go for a drugstore option or the ultimate luxury face cream, Birnbaum says what’s most important at the end of the day is that you actually use it regularly.

“Ultimately, the best moisturizer is the one you will use,” Birnbaum says. “If a fancier, ‘more elegant’ moisturizer feels better on your skin and this means you’ll use it—by all means. But realize—moisturizers don’t need to break the bank. A dermatologist won’t be able to tell if you’re using the pricey moisturizer over the affordable one, but they might be able to tell if you’re using a moisturizer... at all.”