As the saying goes, another year older, another year wiser. With that mature wisdom comes more sensitive and delicate skin. But just because we age and have to change the way we apply our makeup, doesn't mean that we can't still have fun, and who doesn't love playing with eyeshadow? Whether you're an eye makeup novice or veteran, there are a few key tips to follow for the best beauty practices to ensure smooth application and longer wear. We talked to makeup artists Jo Strettell and Ashley Rebecca for their professional insight on how to handle skin that has earned fine lines and wrinkles.
Meet the Expert
- Ashley Rebecca is a NYC-based editorial and celebrity makeup artist, as well as a monthly contributor for Byrdie.
- Jo Strettell is a L’Oréal Paris Consulting Makeup Artist whose clients include Demi Moore, Cate Blanchett, Maya Hawke, and Helen Mirren.
Keep reading for the best eye makeup tips and tricks for mature skin, as shared by two makeup artists.
Use Cream vs. Powder
Using a cream shadow versus powder can give you a smoother texture, which can be difficult to achieve when working with mature skin. "I love using cream textures on older women as they appear more hydrating and don’t accentuate fine lines around the eyes that powder eyeshadow can at times," Rebecca explains. Because cream textures are more malleable, you might want to opt for cream blushes and highlighters, too. Plus, using multi-use products, like ILIA's Multi-Stick, that can be applied on all areas of the face are always a bonus. Make sure to blend with your finger to ensure the color spreads nicely and the finish is smooth.
Consider Your Eye Shape
Whether you have mature eyes or not, your eye shape is one of the first things you should consider when doing your eye makeup. "If you have more of a hooded lid, it’s okay to keep the shadow minimal," such as a wash of color over the lid, or to focus more on eyeliner or mascara says Rebecca. Those with almond-shaped eyes can get away with playing with eyeshadow, since it will still be visible when the eyes are open.
Use Under-Eye Primer
Sure, you may be familiar with applying eye primer to your lids, but under-eye primer is just as (if not more) important when it comes to eye makeup for more mature skin types. As your skin matures, under-eye wrinkles and crow's feet are a fact of life, and under-eye primer can help reduce their appearance. Try dotting on Smashbox's Photo Finish Hydrating Under Eye Primer prior to applying any eye makeup—and under-eye concealer—which has a hydrating formula that prevents concealer from settling into fine lines.
Line Your Waterline
Eyes tend to appear smaller as you age, which is where the right eye makeup can come in. Use a flesh-toned eyeliner (try Tarte's Fake Awake Eye Highlight) to line your waterline. This will instantly create the illusion of bigger, more youthful-looking eyes. If you don't have a nude pencil, white will work just as well.
Keep It Simple
"Less really is more when it comes to doing makeup for older women, and often times I’ll apply eyeliner only to the top portion of the lash line versus both top and bottom—this helps the eye to appear more open and awake," says Rebecca. If you're not certain about a specific eyeshadow look then don't pressure yourself to wear it. A simple eyeshadow look can go a long way. If you'd rather take a break from eyeshadow and your eyelids tend to be tinted or veiny, you can always cover them with concealer to even out the tone. Once you get your rhythm of what you like to wear, you'll find the right products that suit your needs.
Look for a Conditioning Mascara
"Lashes begin to thin as we age, and fallout doesn’t as often lead to regrowth as it once did," Strettell explains. To help care for your lashes while adding length and volume, she recommends using the L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Lash Magnifying Mascara, which has a conditioning serum in its formula to treat your lashes while coating them with color. "This is perfect for older women and I always recommend it to my clients."
Opt for Matte Shadows
As fun and as beautiful as shimmery and sparkly eyeshadow shades can be, you'll want to steer clear. To be on the safe side, stock up on matte eyeshadows that will give pigment to the lid without the concern of emphasizing wrinkles. Try Lawless's The One Eyeshadow Palette, which includes 18 beautiful, neutral shades ranging from soft peach to deep chocolate.
Use a Waterproof Eyeliner
Using a waterproof eyeliner above and under the lash lines and right on the waterline will give your eyes depth and definition, without the need for eyeshadow if you don't want to use it. Try using Estée Lauder's Double Wear Infinite Waterproof Eyeliner.
Byrdie Tip
Often times dark eyeliner and shadow on the bottom of the eyes can emphasize dark circles, so you may want to only apply liner on the upper lid to eliminate any unwanted attention.
Don't Be Afraid of Falsies
False lashes can be intimidating, but the right pair can completely transform eye makeup for older people. MoxieLash suggests using a realistic lash, like their Wifey Lash, to open and lift the eyes. Before you say false lashes aren't for you, hear us out. These aren't the false lashes that require lash glue and seemingly impossible skills—they're magnetic lashes that are super easy to apply. First, apply the Magnetic Liquid Eyeliner in short small strokes. Then, use a pair of tweezers to help place lashes on the liner and see them magnetize.
Highlight With Concealer
Use concealer as a highlighter under the brow. Try NARS's Soft Matte Complete Concealer, which will give the benefit of lightening and defining your arch but also dries as a natural, matte texture. You can also use this tip for any shadow look you're creating if you want to avoid shimmer. Concealer can double as a highlighter by brightening eyes without using eyeshadow, but be sure to start with a light amount of concealer and blend with your finger or concealer brush. You can keep adding layers to intensify the brightness, and set the look with a loose powder to ensure it stays all day.
Look For Products That Will Help You
Mastering center eye makeup techniques can be difficult as it is, and getting older doesn't make this any easier. "As we age, it's harder to keep a steady hand for many women. This is especially true when applying eyeliner," says Strettell. She recommends using products that will make applying your eye makeup easier, like the L'Oréal Paris Age Perfect Satin Glide Eyeliner, which contains an ergonomic grip to make the product easy to apply.
Byrdie Tip
As the eye area becomes wrinkled, it can be difficult to get a smooth eyeliner application. Instead of trying to line your eyes in one swift motion, create dots along the upper lash line and connect them. Then, smudge the line for a softer look.
Don't Forget Your Brows
It's easy to overlook your eyebrows when trying to figure out the best eye makeup for older skin, but they should be a key focal point of your look. "The brows are so important when working with more mature skin and features," says Rebecca. "They can completely change the way someone looks if they are shaped and filled in properly."
Use the Right Tools
The key to eyeshadow application for those with mature skin is to blend, blend, blend—and use the right makeup brushes to do so. We love soft brushes that are gentle on skin and work for all eye shapes. If you want to get into Japanese tools, Fude Beauty is also a favorite natural bristle brand.
Set Cream Products
Like we mentioned, the best eyeshadow for mature eyes tends to be cream formulas, since they won't settle into fine lines. That said, it's a good idea to set cream products with powder formulas to avoid any transfer. You can do this for both your eyeshadow and eyeliner, by using a matte eyeshadow. To set your eyeliner, press MAC's Matte Eyeshadow in Carbon overtop using a small, flat top brush.
Build Your Coverage
The best eyeshadow for for mature eyes follows the motto "less is more," and the same concept goes for concealer. "Avoid using thick, heavy concealers on the lids and under the eyes as this can cause a lot of creasing," Rebecca says. "Building concealer coverage and buffing it out with a fluffy brush is a great way to conceal without the makeup looking thick."
Use the Right Makeup Remover
How you remove makeup is just as important as how you apply it. For those with more mature skin, being gentle is key. Rubbing at the skin with a cotton round or wipe can cause irritation and tear the already gentle skin around the eye area. Opt for removers that nourish and hydrate the skin with ingredients like aloe and cucumber. We lover CeraVe's Makeup Removing Cleansing Balm, which is perfect for sensitive skin types, and leaves skin feeling soft and clean.